Revealed July 24, 2026 04:39PM
Franconia Ridge is beautiful. In photographs, you may see for miles in each path. New Hampshire’s White Mountains line the horizon, beneath an unlimited expanse of blue sky. It’s a spotlight alongside the Pemigewasset Loop the place you’re feeling on high of the world.
Or so I’ve heard. By the point I reached the famed ridge with its panoramic vistas, I used to be being actively smothered by fog so dense I couldn’t see 20 ft in entrance of me and rain that didn’t care that my poncho was rated 20,000 mm waterproof—it was going to soak my pants, hat, and solar shirt anyway.
I had simply scrambled painfully slowly over what the map mentioned was a path, however was presently an energetic creek, full with slippery limestone boulders. I used to be additionally hungry and carrying a pack that was undoubtedly not ultralight. Add that I’d not too long ago learn tales of hikers disappearing on this very spot amidst unhealthy climate, and it was the proper recipe for grouchiness. There might have been some swearing on my half.
Complicating issues additional, I hadn’t studied topographic maps, learn path opinions earlier than I began, and even educated. I used to be making an attempt this daunting 31-mile, 9,000-foot elevation acquire hike straight off the sofa.
So it’s protected to say I used to be a bit underprepared. That’s how my grand plan to finish New Hampshire’s iconic Pemigewasset (“Pemi”) Loop in 4 days was a three-day “Semi Pemi” by way of the conveniently positioned Franconia Brook Path that cuts the loop in half.
Thankfully, I realized from my errors, and you’ll, too. Right here’s what I’ll do in a different way on my subsequent try.
Put together for steep inclines.
Once I began the loop, I’d achieved way more mountain climbing within the Midwest, South, and West than I’d ever achieved within the northeast. I used to be conscious that the area’s low-elevation mountains weren’t to be taken calmly. Nevertheless, I wasn’t conscious that New England path builders had apparently by no means heard of a “switchback.”
Consequently, I discovered myself huffing and puffing as I ascended what felt like a path within the midst of an id disaster (it clearly wished to be a rocky stream, not a footpath). I used to be climbing straight up. As quickly as I’d attain the highest of 1 climb, I’d grumble in frustration as I spotted I used to be going proper again down once more, earlier than ascending again up half a mile later. Even the seven miles to the primary tent web site felt lengthy and gradual.
Hikers ought to be ready for repeated ascents and descents all day, every single day. Superior coaching for steeps is beneficial.
Pack extra energy than you suppose you’ll want.
As a result of the path was extra rugged and steep than I anticipated, my physique screamed for extra energy than I often require. Each hour, my abdomen would rumble, and I’d attain for fruit leather-based or salted cashews. By the tip of the primary day, as I took inventory of the meals I introduced, I spotted I might run out lengthy earlier than reaching the tip of the path.
It was that realization that prompted a severe dialogue with my husband and backpacking associate. Finally, we made the choice: a Semi-Pemi was the one choice that made sense.
I realized my lesson about purchasing for backpacking meals the night earlier than a visit. Err on the aspect of warning and pack extra meals than you suppose you’ll want.
Be ready for any type of climate.
The White Mountains are infamous for unpredictable climate. In any case, Mt. Washington has claimed the file for among the coldest windchills (-108.4°F) and strongest gusts of wind (231 mph) on the planet. Yearly, a number of hikers get misplaced or perish throughout the vary. The peaks might not appear excessive, however they’re typically as treacherous as their a lot larger elevation western cousins.
Throughout my trek, it poured, and the fog was so thick that my husband and I stayed inside 10 ft so we didn’t lose sight of each other. Cool breezes blew in. Then the solar got here out, making it unbearably humid. This all came about over three days in late August. Thankfully, I introduced a rain shell and further socks, however I used to be nonetheless soggy each evening. I might have packed extra foul-weather gear—and certain rain pants—if I’d recognized how excessive the climate swings have been on this a part of the nation.
Discovering campsites is usually a problem.
Since I used to be backpacking mid-week on the finish of summer season, I didn’t have bother discovering tenting spots. Nevertheless, throughout summer season or on weekends, plan to get to camp early to snag one of the best spots when you don’t have a reservation. Tenting is barely allowed in designated websites, however they’re thoughtfully spaced, together with at Liberty Spring, Garfield Ridge, and Franconia Brook.
Appalachian Mountain Membership (AMC) huts close to Galehead Mountain and Mt. Lafayette supply indoor in a single day choices when you’re keen to pay. These reservations ought to be made properly prematurely.
What I’ll do in a different way subsequent time
Thankfully, the Pemigewasset Loop will nonetheless be there once I head east to try it once more. And try it I’ll. You higher consider my legs shall be educated for steep climbs, my rain gear shall be dialed, my pack shall be ultralight, and I’ll have a surplus of backpacking meals and further snacks on the prepared.
(Picture: Alisha McDarris)
Editor’s Observe: 2026 Lincoln Woods Trailhead Closure
The Lincoln Woods Path, which is the usual entry route for the Pemigewasset Loop, is presently closed till November 2026. The path has been severely broken by quite a few floods over a number of a long time and is present process restoration work. Nevertheless, the Pemi Loop remains to be accessible, in accordance with the US Forest Service (USFS).
The next different entry routes come instantly USFS webpage on the Lincoln Woods Trailhead. These different trails will get you on the Pemi Loop, though they’ll have an effect on your complete mileage.
Greenleaf Path Entry – Begin and finish at Greenleaf Path parking on the Cannon Tram. Complete loop mileage—36.2 miles
Skookumchuck Path Entry – Begin and finish at Skookumchuck Path parking off Rt. 3. Complete loop mileage—38.4 miles
Garfield Path Entry – Begin and finish at Garfield TH off Gale River Rd. *Parking is restricted. Mileage—39.4 miles
Gale River Path Entry – Begin and finish at Gale River TH of Gale River Rd. *Parking is restricted. AMC Hiker Shuttle does choose up at this location. Complete loop mileage—37.8
North Twin Entry – Begin and finish at North Twin TH of Haystack Rd. *Parking is restricted. Complete loop mileage—41 miles
