A Classic Hike on Bolivia’s Altiplano

My most up-to-date go to to Bolivia’s Altiplano was in 2017. The raison d’etre of that journey was a 600 km/373 mile traverse of the area, which featured multi-colored lakes, the world’s largest salt flat, and a memorable end on prime of Volcan Licancabur (5,920 m/19,423 ft). Lacking from the related journey report was a phenomenal brief hike that instantly preceded the traverse – a border-straddling overnighter I known as the 5 Lakes Loop (Be aware: Two of the 5 our bodies of water are positioned on the Chilean aspect of the border). The article beneath consists of images, primary trekking notes, a gear record, and logistical and GPS data for the route.

At a Look

Distance:  47 km (29 mi)

Common Period:  10 hours to 2 days

Problem Degree:  Average. Round 40% of the route is off-trail; nevertheless, navigation/route-finding is pretty easy within the wide-open, treeless panorama.

Season: June to September (I hiked in early September)

Complete Elevation Acquire: 946 m (3,104 ft)

Elevation Vary: 4,230 m (13,879 ft) to five,130 m (16,831 ft)

Begin/End:  Sajama Village, Bolivia

Moonlight over Sajama Volcano. This was one in every of my favourite campsites in Bolivia. Not surprisingly, given the altitude of 4,928 m/16,168 ft, it was colder than a mortgage shark’s coronary heart at round 10°F/-12°C, however the skies had been clear, the moon was vivid, and the bone-chilling wind had fortunately abated.

Overview Map of the 5 Lakes Loop / Sajama, Bolivia.

Highlights

The eponymous 5 Lakes. If I needed to decide one, it could be the almost-perfectly spherical Inca Ingenio. 
Stoic llamas and speedy vicunas.
Flamingos on Laguna Huayna Kota
Soaking within the full moon rising alongside the mighty Nevado Sajama (6,542 m/21,463 ft), Bolivia’s highest peak. 

Llamas wandering the Altiplano, with the snow-capped twin peaks of Volcan Pomerape (6,282 m) and Volcan Parinacota (6,348 m) within the background.

Planning Data:

Getting There & Away: From the capital of La Paz, you may take a non-public automobile or a combo of buses to achieve the village of Sajama.  I went with the latter possibility. The journey took round six hours, with a change of buses (from huge to mini) within the city of Oruro.

Downtown Sajama (inhabitants 1,700). At an altitude of 4,230 m (13,878 ft), Sajama is among the highest completely inhabited villages on the earth.

Permits & Charges: No, on each counts.

On-line Data: For a basic overview of Sajama Nationwide Park, see VisitSouthAmerica.co and Nationwide-Parks.org. On the AllTrails web site (Lagunas de Sajama), you could find an abbreviated model of the featured hike (32.7 km/20.3 mi), which incorporates three of the 5 lakes (together with images and path descriptions). Other than fewer lakes and fewer distance, the most important distinction between the AllTrails hike and the 5 Lakes Loop is that the previous is all on path, whereas the latter is cross-country between Laguna Chiar Kkota and Laguna Huayna Kota (round 20 km/12.4 mi).

Nevado Sajama illuminated at sundown.

Lodging:

Tenting choices are plentiful all through the hike. That stated, the terrain is totally uncovered, and when it’s blowier than an AYCE bean buffet, you’ll need to be looking out for pure windbreaks earlier than bedding down for the evening.

Earlier than and after the hike, I stayed on the Hostal Sajama. I discovered the cabins to be snug, and administration let me retailer further baggage and provides whereas I used to be trekking.

Path Notes:

On the preliminary stretch out of city, comply with 4WD roads till you attain a signed junction at Estancia Junthum. From there, it’s round three kilometers to the geysers.

Leaving the geothermal space, the path climbs steadily as much as Paso de Casiri (15,941 ft), which straddles the border between Bolivia and Chile. From right here, you’ll be handled to views of the primary of the 5 lakes, Laguna Casiri Macho.

The path to Paso Casiri with the snow-capped Sajama within the background.

Laguna Casiri Macho

Quickly after departing Casiri Macho, skirt alongside the southeastern aspect of the smaller Laguna Sora Pata, which is the second of the lakes on the Chilean aspect of the border.

From there, climb as much as a windswept moonscape, the place you’ll be afforded putting views towards Laguna Chiar Khota.

First views of the Laguna Chiar Khota. A deliberate aspect journey as much as the snow-speckled summit behind the lake – Jisk’a Kunturini (5,475/17,963 ft) – was deserted resulting from some climate headed in my course (Be aware: The storm ended up being a brief one).

Layered up close to Laguna Chiar Khota.

From the western shores of Chiar Kkota, I headed NNE after which NE over a few rock-strewn saddles earlier than descending to the jaw-dropping Laguna Inca Ingenio.

On the flora entrance, one of many highlights of this part was encountering Azorella Compacta (“llareta”), a high-altitude plant endemic to the Andes, which is discovered at elevations ranging between 3,200 and 5,000 m (16,404 ft) above sea stage.

Laguna Inca Ingenio

I loved an early dinner along with some core-warming coca tea on the sandy shores.

Leaving the frigid waters of Inca Ingenio, I continued NE by means of a slim, boulder-strewn valley sandwiched between two sandy-sloped peaks.

Round three kilometers (2 mi) after leaving the lake, the solar had stated its goodbyes and the temps had been dropping quick. It was time to search for a spot to mattress down – ideally with a grandstand view of Sajama Nationwide Park’s namesake mountain.

The Mountain Laurel Designs SoloMid (which remains to be going robust in 2025) and Nevado Sajama.

The next morning, I awoke semi-early and descended Quebrada Condoriri to achieve the shallow, flamingo-frequented lake of Huayna Khota.

Descending Quebrada Condoriri

Laguna Huayna Khota

The ultimate stretch of the 5 Lakes Loop adopted a mud highway again to the village of Sajama. Alongside the way in which, I ended for a soak on the soothing sizzling springs of Doña Ines.

Upon arrival on the Hostal Sajama, I loved a protracted lunch earlier than heading all the way down to the village plaza and soccer floor to absorb a late afternoon sport. An ideal ending to a improbable brief hike.

Re-entering Sajama Village on the finish of the 5 Lakes Loop.

Taking in a late afternoon soccer/soccer sport with rugged-up locals.

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