The 50-mile Roan Highlands part of the Appalachian Path is extensively thought of one of the vital scenic backpacking routes within the Southeast. Named for the Roan Mountain massif, the stretch is known for its rolling grassy balds— the longest steady sequence within the Appalachian Mountains—providing panoramic views that rival a number of the finest hikes on the East Coast. Straddling the Tennessee–North Carolina border, the path climbs throughout open ridgelines, winds via lush mountain valleys, and delivers infinite photo-worthy vistas. For backpackers in search of a difficult multi-day hike with prime backcountry tenting, the Roan Highlands present an unforgettable Appalachian Path expertise.
Trailhead elevation 1,683′
Water all through, although many sources dry up in summer time
Do not miss tenting at Magnificence Spot, close to Grassy Ridge Bald, and/or the Overmountain Tenting Space
My buddy Dave and I determine to spend a number of days backpacking the Appalachian Path via the Roan Highlands, mountain climbing from the Chestoa Trailhead in Erwin, Tennessee to the 19E Trailhead in Roan Mountain. It is about 50 miles in all and we plan to spend 5 days tackling it. We depart my automobile at Mountain Harbour Mattress & Breakfast—a 3rd of a mile from the place the AT crosses 19E—for a small charge, then make the drive to Erwin to start out our hike.
The day is dominated by a gradual climb beneath a cover of combined hardwoods, with the path winding via dense stands of Catawba rhododendron, magnolia, and mountain laurel. We move water sources alongside Jones Department close to the 1.5- and three.5-mile marks, finally refilling at Shinbone Creek at Indian Grave Hole. From this level on, we encounter no extra water sources. After gaining about 3,300 ft of elevation over 11 or so miles, we attain Magnificence Spot—a dry camp with sweeping, panoramic views. To the south, an unlimited sea of peaks unfolds. Within the distance, we make out Mount Mitchell—North Carolina’s towering summit and the best level east of the Mississippi—rising above the remainder, with forested ridges and luxurious valleys stretching out in each path.
We shed our packs, plop down on a log beside a stone hearth ring, and soak within the view for what seems like eternally. Finally, we prepare dinner dinner, discuss over the miles nonetheless forward, and grasp our bear luggage in a stand of birch bushes a secure distance from camp. About an hour later, we catch a beautiful sundown from camp, and watch because the solar sinks under the horizon over the Sampson Mountain Wilderness.
The day, which had introduced Dave and I few views till camp, ends with crickets and the sound of a delicate breeze towards our tents.
The subsequent morning, we wake to a fogged-in camp, the sweeping panorama of peaks from the evening prior to now fully hidden. With an extended day forward, Dave shortly makes breakfast, we pack up camp, and set off alongside the grassy path as heat morning mild begins to interrupt via.
A stretch of mild climbs and simple descents carries us via open meadows and dense forest earlier than we start a steep, switchbacking ascent of Unaka Mountain. Daylight filters via the bushes as we inch nearer to the summit.
As we climb, the panorama steadily transforms—from groves of sugar maple, white oak, and hemlock to a summit cloaked solely in a towering stand of purple spruce. We move a number of dry backcountry websites in the course of the ascent, every round 14 miles in, in addition to a number of on Unaka’s summit. Dave’s chest an infection has gotten worse, so we take an extended break on the summit earlier than persevering with on. The remainder of the day affords no scenic views—simply mile after mile of mountain climbing via dense, shadowy forest.
We move a number of extra backcountry websites round miles 14.9, 16.8, 20.4, 22.5, 23.4, and 23.5. Water is scarce alongside this stretch, so we high off at a piped spring down a 200-foot spur path behind the Cherry Hole Shelter, and once more from one other pipe at Apple Orchard 4.5 miles later. This part additionally takes us over 4 tree-covered, viewless summits: Large Ball, Piney Ball, Little Bald Knob, and Piney Bald. We’re determined for any form of view, however the path refuses to ship.
Lastly, a little bit greater than 25 miles in, we attain Greasy Creek Hole—a dry web site with two giant backcountry websites tucked beneath a cover of bushes—and determine to name it a day. Dave is totally worn out, and pushing on to the Clyde Smith Shelter a number of miles away simply isn’t within the playing cards.
The subsequent morning, we begin early and deal with Iron Mountain and Little Rock Knob earlier than an extended gradual descent to Hughes Hole. In the course of the descent, feeling worse than the earlier two days, Dave decides to name a shuttle service to return choose him up at Hughes Hole. He tells me to maintain going and end, however I do not wish to depart a sick buddy behind so we finish the journey a number of days early. Apart from Magnificence Spot, the primary three days are nothing however forested terrain and little or no when it comes to views. It was a pleasant exercise, however nothing spectacular.
Almost two years later—about seven months after Hurricane Helene tore via the area—I return to complete the ultimate stretch of the Highlands, mountain climbing the AT from Hughes Hole to 19E. This time, I’ve booked a shuttle with Mountain Harbour. I arrive there round midday and discover that they are constructing a brand new hostel. Apparently, the earlier one, a 1904 barn-turned-home for the evening, was destroyed by the hurricane final yr. I pay for the shuttle that I had reserved on-line a number of months again, in addition to in a single day parking ($50 whole), then Gigi, considered one of Mountain Harbour’s homeowners, drives me about half-hour to Hughes Hole, needs me luck, and sends me on my approach.
The hike begins with a gradual 2.2-mile climb from Hughes Hole, a gradual ascent via open hardwood forest dominated by white oak and maple. Occasional breaks within the bushes reveal glimpses of the encompassing Blue Ridge peaks.
Round 0.4 miles in, a marked spur path results in a water supply—helpful for planning your Roan Highlands water refills—however I proceed on with full bottles. At roughly 2.2 miles, the lasting affect of 2025’s Hurricane Helene turns into clear, with quite a few downed bushes—many freshly reduce by path crews—lining the route.
At 2.7 miles, I attain the summit of Beartown Mountain, a wooded excessive level with restricted views, earlier than descending barely to a flat space dotted with dispersed campsites beneath the shadow of Cloudland Mountain.
From there, the path climbs once more through switchbacks towards Cloudland, the third-highest peak within the Roan Highlands at 6,620 ft. The forest transitions noticeably right here, shifting from hardwoods to dense stands of pine and fir. The ultimate half-mile to the summit is particularly scenic, with moss-covered floor and a lush, high-elevation spruce-fir ecosystem that defines this part of the AT.
Like Beartown, Cloudland Mountain nonetheless reveals indicators of storm injury, with scattered blowdowns close to the summit.
Whereas there are not any panoramic views right here, a brief detour results in the remnants of the historic Cloudland Resort—a captivating and often-overlooked piece of Appalachian historical past. In-built 1885 by Civil Battle common John Thomas Wilder, the lodge as soon as stood as one of the vital formidable high-elevation resorts within the jap United States. Perched above 6,000 ft, it attracted rich guests in search of cooler temperatures and clear mountain air. What started as a modest lodge expanded right into a 166-room vacation spot, full with sweeping views of over 100 peaks and even a eating room that straddled the Tennessee–North Carolina state line. Regardless of its reputation—together with visits from naturalist John Muir—the lodge in the end succumbed to harsh climate, excessive upkeep prices, and logistical challenges. By the early 1900s, it was deserted, and at present solely basis remnants and a marker stay alongside a brief spur from the path.
Persevering with past Cloudland, the path turns into extensive and forgiving, climbing steadily towards Roan Excessive Knob. After a number of miles of rolling terrain, the practically flat, shaded stretch via dense pine and fir forest seems like a welcome reprieve. Finally, I attain the spur path to the Roan Excessive Knob Shelter, the best shelter on your complete Appalachian Path at 6,285 ft. Though an indication alongside the AT signifies that it is closed, I take the brief detour to test it out. Intensive repairs are underway—doubtless resulting from Helen storm injury—with work being finished on the muse, partitions, and roof. There are not any views from the shelter, nevertheless it’s a worthwhile cease for these inquisitive about notable AT landmarks. I have been informed that there’s a water pipe up right here someplace, however I can not discover it—probably one other casualty of the hurricane.
From Roan Excessive Knob, the path descends gently for a number of miles via steady spruce-fir forest, making for an unexpectedly simple method towards Carver’s Hole.
Simply earlier than reaching the hole, the path turns sharply left and drops via a superbly maintained part, crossing two wood footbridges simply earlier than the highway. Close to the second bridge, a small marker signifies a close-by water supply. Following a tip from a thru-hiker named Muskrat, I discover a dependable pipe spring only a brief distance downhill alongside a blue-blazed path. I refill right here and proceed on.
Arriving at Carver’s Hole marks a dramatic shift within the panorama. The dense forest offers solution to wide-open views. From right here, the path is absolutely uncovered, with no shade and intense solar—one thing to noticeably contemplate when planning a Roan Highlands backpacking gear record (sunscreen). A brief climb results in Spherical Bald, the place 360-degree views reveal an infinite sea of peaks. On a transparent day, you may spot distant landmarks like Mount Mitchell, together with different outstanding summits stretching throughout Tennessee, North Carolina, and even into Virginia. The southern-facing views into North Carolina are particularly superb—arguably a number of the finest surroundings within the Roan Highlands. Photographs do no justice.
From Spherical Bald, the long-lasting grassy summits of Jane Bald and Grassy Ridge Bald rise simply forward. After a fast break to absorb the views, I proceed north. The climb up Jane Bald is brief however surprisingly demanding, with a steep, rocky pitch that seems like one of many more difficult sections I’ve encountered over 40+ miles of mountain climbing within the Highlands.
On the high of Jane Bald, I discover a faint, hiker-made spur path main again towards Spherical Bald. Since I had deliberate on tenting someplace between Jane Bald and Grassy Ridge Bald, I comply with it—and it seems to be among the best selections of the journey up to now. The brief path, possibly 150 ft lengthy, opens to a small campsite with unobstructed, 360-degree views of Spherical Bald, Roan Excessive Knob, Grassy Ridge Bald, and an infinite panorama of Blue Ridge peaks. I feel to myself – there cannot be a greater backcountry web site wherever within the Roan Highlands. I drop my pack, slug down a liter of water, and benefit from the unimaginable views. About an hour earlier than sundown, temperatures start to fall and the wind picks up throughout the uncovered bald. I arrange camp and watch the solar slowly dip under the horizon over one of the vital stunning stretches of the Appalachian Path that I’ve ever encountered. Once more, pictures do completely zero justice.
After a wildly windy evening on Jane—punctuated by the sound of howling coyotes—I wake to a glowing dawn spilling over the shoulder of Grassy Ridge Bald. With an extended day of mountain climbing forward, I break down camp and hit the path.
Just some hundred ft from camp, I move the spur path to the summit of Grassy Ridge Bald, however determine to remain on the AT. I am out of water, and with out figuring out the place water is forward, the additional mileage as much as the summit of Grassy Ridge Bald is not within the playing cards.
Fortunately, lower than 1 / 4 mile later, I attain a pipe spring proper alongside the precise facet of the path. It is inconceivable to overlook. I replenish two liters of water, then proceed alongside the singletrack with the solar starting to interrupt via the clouds. Subsequent time I am round, I will be sure to hit the summit of Grassy Ridge Bald.
The gradual descent from Grassy Ridge Bald reveals a number of established campsites, every appropriate for a number of tents, and roughly two miles from camp, I arrive on the Murray Shelter, a preferred cease for AT thru-hikers. I hook up with a number of via hikers I met the day earlier than, and considered one of them shares some leftover path magic earlier than I push on. “Whoever dropped off a case of Heineken and Coke on the shelter final night goes to heaven,” considered one of them says.
After a brief climb from the shelter, the path ranges out right into a flat stretch crammed with wildflowers – violets and Blue Ridge Phacelia, I consider.
About two miles previous Stan Murray Shelter, I attain Yellow Mountain Hole and take a fast detour to discover the Overmountain tenting space. A brief spur path leads downhill previous one other pipe spring to a wide-open tenting space with sweeping views of Roaring Creek Valley, Yellow Mountain, and varied different peaks. The Overmountain Shelter, often known as Yellow Mountain Barn, as soon as stood right here nevertheless it was closed in 2019 and eventually taken down piece by piece in November 2023 resulting from extreme structural instability. It is identify was derived from the Overmountain Males, American frontier settlers from west of the Blue Ridge Mountains, who handed via the Hole on their approach from Sycamore Shoals (now Elizabethton), Tennessee to defeat the British Military underneath Main Patrick Ferguson on the Battle of Kings Mountain (South Carolina) in the course of the Revolutionary Battle. The defeat freed the American South from British domination, and was a significant turning level within the conflict. The barn was one of many largest shelters on the AT, with a capability for at the very least 35 individuals. Though the shelter is now not standing, the realm stays among the best and hottest backcountry tenting spots within the Roan Highlands. Nice views, a dependable water supply close by, and loads of room for via hikers and weekend warriors alike.
Again on the AT. The climb out of Yellow Mountain Hole is relentless—steep, sustained, and arguably more durable than the ascent up Jane Bald earlier within the journey. I break typically, not simply to catch my breath, however to absorb the sweeping views behind me, together with Roan Excessive Knob, Spherical Bald, Grassy Ridge Bald, and extra of Roaring Creek Valley.
Finally, the climb leads me to Little Hump Mountain, the place I’m rewarded with a number of the finest 360-degree views within the Highlands. Behind me, the acquainted balds stretch throughout the horizon, whereas forward lies the imposing Hump Mountain, with Grandfather Mountain seen within the distance. Many hikers contemplate the views from Little Hump to be one of the best within the Roan Highlands—and it’s onerous to argue.
From Little Hump, I descend into Bradley Hole, the place I discover a number of campsites adopted by a marker on a tree indicating a water supply under. Not more than thirty ft off path is a small, pure spring with minimal circulation—doubtless unreliable in hotter months.
Without having to refill, I preserve transferring. Not lengthy after, I get away of the forest on the base of Hump Mountain, the place I cease for a water break and watch a free line of backpackers climbing the bald. Then I transfer on, pushing into the identical relentless winds I felt on Little Hump, stopping from time to time to catch my breath and take within the views.
After pushing previous a false summit, I attain the highest of Hump and break to soak all of it in. The panoramic 360-degree views are breathtaking and simply among the many finest on your complete route. From the summit, I can pick Little Hump Mountain, Grassy Ridge Bald, Spherical Bald, Roan Excessive Knob, Yellow Mountain, and even Mount Mitchell—however they’re only a handful among the many a whole bunch of peaks stretching to the horizon. It is spectacular.
I chat briefly with a father and son, snap a number of pictures, after which start the descent alongside Houston Ridge. The ridgeline affords steady views, together with a persistent sightline to Grandfather Mountain—considered one of North Carolina’s most recognizable peaks and a private favourite of mine. Just a few years again, I discovered a airplane crash up on Grandfather, which was fairly fascinating.
Shortly into the descent, I cease not out of exhaustion, however merely to sit down and take within the panorama. This is likely one of the most stunning sections of the Roan Highlands in my view, and I wish to keep in mind it. With the solar beating down, I set off once more, slowly descending the grassy ridge whereas taking within the sweeping views forward. I pause to gather a little bit of the ridge’s grass to carry dwelling in a small glass vial. It’s a convention of mine to collect soil from locations I like and preserve it as a reminder—however right here, grass feels extra becoming than filth. Just a few miles later, I attain Doll Flats and cross again into Tennessee. The world affords loads of campsites and even a pipe spring (simply after the “Leaving NC” signal), however with only a few miles left to hike, I skip the refill and preserve transferring.
Finally, the path dips again into the forest, the place the terrain turns into tough and unforgiving—plagued by uncovered roots and jagged rocks harking back to Pennsylvania sections of the AT. It’s robust on the knees and ankles, however by this level, the views have already made the trouble worthwhile. After a pair extra miles of forested terrain, I attain 19E, say goodbye to a couple of the AT via hikers that I have been speaking with over the past 20 miles, and take a brief highway stroll again to Mountain Harbour.
The journey could also be over, however the expertise will stick to me for a lifetime. This I am certain of. Whereas the early days had their challenges and few views, the stretch from Carver’s Hole to Hump Mountain is nothing in need of world-class backpacking—arguably one of the vital scenic sections of your complete AT. The Roan Highlands didn’t simply meet my expectations—they exceeded them. And subsequent time, I’ll be again… hopefully with Heather by my facet.
