Mountain climbing the South Manitou Previous Development Cedars Path in Sleeping Bear Dunes Nationwide Lakeshore is a serene and immersive expertise, weaving via a mixture of sandy paths, compact grime, and wood boardwalks shaded by birch, maple, and yew. Alongside the best way, hikers move Florence Lake, the island’s solely inland lake, and might catch glimpses of historic shipwrecks resting simply offshore. The path results in a grove of historic Champion cedars, some over 700 years previous, towering above the forest flooring and providing a uncommon glimpse of the island’s pre-logging panorama. Interspersed with remnants of the island’s previous—lighthouse views, previous farm gear, and interpretive indicators—the hike combines pure magnificence, quiet solitude, and a way of historical past, all framed by the glowing waters of Lake Michigan and distant mainland vistas.
Water Filterable from Florence Lake & Lake Michigan
Do not miss the Francisco Morazan shipwreck
Mountain climbing the Previous Development Cedars Path
After an extended day of ups and downs on Pyramid Level and a relaxed night watching the sundown and a campfire glow on Esch Seaside, Heather and I are prepared for our subsequent journey. Right this moment we’re catching the ferry to South Manitou Island to hike the Previous Development Cedars Path. With Labor Day weekend in full swing, we’re hoping the island provides us slightly area to flee the crowds.
A few weeks again, I booked tickets on the Mishe-Mokwa, the Manitou Island Transit ferry that runs from the historic harbor city of Leland out to the island. From Empire it’s a few forty-minute drive, and we roll into city with an hour to spare—sufficient time to verify in, seize our NPS move, cease at Two Fish, after which make our approach right down to the dock for the ten AM departure.
By the point we board, the decks are already full of weekend vacationers, so we head for the bow. It seems to be the proper spot. The sky is a crisp September blue, the air within the excessive 60s, and the lake appears about as inviting because it will get. Because the ferry pulls away, Whaleback and Pyramid Level fade into the gap, and shortly the boat is skimming throughout the Manitou Passage. The ninety-minute, 18-mile trip goes shortly, and little by little, South Manitou comes into view. First, only a faint shoreline. Then, the lighthouse—a white tower standing tall on the fringe of the island. It feels just like the second the place the journey actually begins.
We land on the island’s crystal-clear shoreline, the place a crowd of backpackers and campers waits on the dock for the ferry to hold them again to the mainland. Simply past, two previous U.S. Life-Saving Service boathouses stand close to the Nationwide Park Service ranger station, whereas the South Manitou Island Lighthouse rises within the distance to the south.
We shortly depart, then make our technique to South Manitou Village the place we study a bit in regards to the island’s historical past. Like so many locations on the Nice Lakes, South Manitou Island carries a layered historical past that stretches far past its fashionable function as a hiker’s escape. Lengthy earlier than lighthouses and steamships, the Anishinaabe peoples used the island seasonally for fishing, looking, and berry gathering, threading it into their journey routes throughout Lake Michigan.
European explorers handed via the Manitou Passage as early because the 1600s, however the island’s actual significance grew within the 1800s when delivery visitors on the Nice Lakes exploded. The U.S. authorities constructed a lighthouse in 1839 to assist information vessels safely via the busy, storm-prone waters. A later model of that lighthouse, inbuilt 1871, nonetheless stands tall in the present day.
For a time, the island supported a small however decided farming group. Settlers raised rye, potatoes, and livestock, and lower timber for passing steamships that stopped to refuel. The island’s historic white cedar forest turned certainly one of its defining options — and even in the present day, a handful of these towering giants nonetheless stand, hidden away in a secluded grove close to the island’s southwestern shore.
By the mid-1900s, life on the island grew tougher. Farming in sandy soil was by no means simple, and as coal changed wooden for ship gas, certainly one of South Manitou’s important industries vanished. Households slowly drifted again to the mainland, and by the Nineteen Seventies, the final everlasting residents have been gone. That very same decade, a brand new chapter started. In 1970, South Manitou turned a part of Sleeping Bear Dunes Nationwide Lakeshore, preserved not just for its pure magnificence but additionally for its cultural historical past.
After a fast introduction to the island’s historical past, we set out alongside the sandy path. The trail leads us previous the park’s customer heart, the place rusting century-old farm gear rests within the grass, however with restricted time, we resolve to maintain transferring.
Past the customer heart, a wood boardwalk carries us towards the 104-foot-tall South Manitou Island Lighthouse and keeper’s quarters.
We pause right here, taking within the sweeping 180-degree views and studying a bit in regards to the households who as soon as referred to as this place residence — the Sheridans, the Burdicks, and the Roses — every leaving their very own mark on the island’s story.
Adolescence on the island was harsh, and of the three households, none endured larger heartbreak than the Sheridans. In 1866, Aaron Sheridan, a Civil Battle veteran, was appointed Keeper of the South Manitou Island Lighthouse. He and his spouse, Julia, raised a household right here, ultimately welcoming six sons. After the brand new 104-foot tower was accomplished, Julia herself was named the island’s first Assistant Keeper — the one lady ever to serve in that function. Sadly, tragedy struck in March of 1878 when Aaron, Julia, and their youngest son, Robert, have been returning to the island by boat. Their vessel capsized, and all three have been misplaced to the lake. The 5 surviving Sheridan youngsters went on to dwell with their grandparents on the mainland. Right this moment, the household’s story remains to be remembered and advised on an informative placard contained in the lighthouse. Descendants of Aaron and Julia proceed to go to the island, and in 2006, they positioned headstones for the three within the cemetery close to the island’s heart.
After exploring the lighthouse, we return to the principle path, following the southern, forested fringe of the island. The shaded path shifts between wood boardwalks, compact grime, and sandy stretches, surrounded by stands of birch, maple, and Canadian yew.
Round 2 miles into our hike, we move Florence Lake, the island’s solely inland lake, spanning 78 acres. The mosquitoes listed below are relentless, so our cease is transient, simply lengthy sufficient to absorb the view earlier than urgent on.
Simply previous Florence Lake, we come to a marked junction resulting in the historic farmsteads of early island settlers—Theodore and August Beck, James Sheridan, and George Conrad Huntzler. With little time to spare, we resolve to maintain going. Not lengthy after, about 2.5 miles into the hike, we attain one other well-marked junction, an arrow pointing left towards a “shipwreck.” Shocked to discover a wreck alongside the path, we fortunately take the detour. A brief third-of-a-mile stroll brings us to the sting of a steep bluff, and thru a break within the bushes, we spot it: the Francisco Morazan, resting about 300 yards offshore.
On November 28, 1960, the Morazan ran aground after a 38-year profession that noticed her sail below eight names, six flags, and for eleven totally different house owners. The ship had departed Chicago the day earlier than, carrying greater than 1,000 tons of cargo certain for the Netherlands and Germany — every part from canned hen to shampoo bottles, toys, and extra. She was racing towards time to achieve the Atlantic earlier than the St. Lawrence Seaway closed on December 3.
This voyage was the primary command for Captain Eduardo Trivizas. Onboard have been twelve crew members and the captain’s pregnant spouse, Anastasia. Fog slowed their progress, and a defective feeder pump pressured the ship to float for eight hours whereas repairs have been made. By 7:15 pm, the Morazan handed Level Betsie in a blinding snowstorm, was pushed off beam, and ran aground simply 300 yards from the island’s shore.
Three Coast Guard vessels and a civilian tug responded to the mayday, however by December 4, it was clear the ship couldn’t be saved. The crew was safely eliminated, and whereas makes an attempt have been made to salvage the cargo, they have been finally deserted.
After the detour, Heather and I head again to the principle path and make our approach towards the old-growth cedar grove. Once we arrive, a bunch of guides from Manitou Island Transit is giving a chat to guests who have been shuttled to this a part of the island. We pause for a couple of minutes, studying that these Champion cedars started rising greater than 700 years in the past, again when this space was a swamp. Over a century in the past, South Manitou Island was residence to hundreds of towering Champion cedars, however almost all have been cleared for timber way back. The sight is spectacular, however not desirous to linger within the crowd, we resolve to proceed on our hike, stopping to view extra large cedars alongside the best way.
We make our approach towards a close-by stretch of sand dunes, however with time slipping by and a swim calling earlier than the ferry arrives, we flip again towards the lighthouse. By the point we attain the seaside close to the lighthouse, now we have about an hour to spare, simply sufficient time for a fast dip and a few enjoyable within the solar. It’s early September, and the water remains to be a bit chilly, however it’s excellent for rinsing off two days’ price of climbing funk. From this spot, the view stretches throughout the horizon, taking in North Manitou Island, Sleeping Bear Level, Pyramid Level, and several other different mainland landmarks. I tempt Heather with one other skinny dip, however she would not take the bait.
With 4:00 quick approaching, we make our approach again to the dock, the place the Mishe-Mokwa is ready to hold us again to Leland and burgers at Rick’s Café.
An ideal day on the island involves a detailed, however we’ll be again — subsequent time to backpack and discover the elements of the island we didn’t have time to see on this journey. Thanks for the reminiscences, South Manitou! We had a blast.
