The Knoydart Peninsula and surrounding space has a number of the most spectacular mountain landscapes within the Scottish Highlands. Notoriously it additionally has a number of the most rugged terrain, therefore the previous identify “the Tough Bounds of Knoydart”. This two-week stroll by this powerful nation started on the head of Loch Arkaig with a brief night stroll up Glen Pean within the firm of Tony Hobbs, who was with me for the primary 5 days. The subsequent day we continued by the dramatic coronary heart of this magnificent glen, clambering by the boulder subject at its head, and right down to Loch Morar and a very good camp website. The climate was moist, the clouds low over the hills, nevertheless it did clear up briefly throughout the night.
A route by the Tough Bounds
A steep climb on very tough floor led to the lengthy ridge of Carn Mor, a Corbett, which we adopted again in direction of Loch Arkaig with one excessive camp alongside the way in which, sheltered from the sturdy winds in a slight hole. Cautious navigation within the mist – there’s no path and the terrain is rocky and complicated – took us over the summit and onto simpler floor that led right down to Glen Dessary and our final camp collectively, which was in welcome sunshine.
The nice climate didn’t final as I set off alone up Glen Dessary for a nine-day round stroll that took me over six passes and again to Loch Arkaig, visiting Inverie and Barrisdale en route. The climate was largely moist, apart from the day I spent at Inverie, with the clouds down on the tops and the best passes. After Carn Mor I had no want for extra navigation within the mist over rocky hills. I most well-liked to see one thing. I did climb one hill, an out and again from a camp, on a day when the clouds have been above the summits. This was Ben Aden, one other Corbett. It’s an excellent rocky hill and I used to be actually glad to have a view as my solely earlier ascent, many a long time in the past, had been in mist and rain.
Regardless of the climate this was an excellent journey, with dramatic surroundings day-after-day and a few superb camp websites. The going was fairly powerful more often than not. There’s little simple strolling in Knoydart. The rain turned most of the paths into quagmires too. This is likely one of the wettest locations in Britain.
Planning and preparation
This was a late spring journey, and the forecast was for cool, moist, and windy climate so I wished a tent that may stand as much as storms, and a hotter sleeping bag and extra substantial clothes. In fact, it may be heat and sunny at the moment of yr, however I want to err on the aspect of warning with gear. I’d somewhat carry a bit greater than wanted than be chilly or moist. Because it was, I wanted the storm gear, however a lighter sleeping bag and colder clothes would have been superb because it wasn’t very chilly.
Realising I may swap them over after the primary 5 days after I returned to the beginning with Tony Hobbs this was a very good alternative to check objects, so I took two tents, two sleeping baggage, and two mats.
I solely made a sketchy define route as I deliberate on adapting our path to the climate. If it was clear and never too windy, we’d go over the summits. If not, which was the way it turned out, I’d keep on with the glens and passes. I wished to go to Inverie and Barrisdale. How I bought to them was open to choices on the time.
I did take into consideration camp websites as I knew that the rugged terrain meant they weren’t at all times simple to seek out. This might particularly be the case if I went over the summits.
For the primary 5 days with Tony, who hadn’t skilled the roughness and steepness of Knoydart earlier than, I deliberate a route that would simply be minimize quick or reversed.
The gear Chris selected for the Tough Bounds
Constructed To Ship X3 Alpine Pack – Greatest Purchase
Ranking: 4.5/5
Value: £329
Weight: 1.23kg
Professionals: consolation, stability, sturdiness, water-resistance.
Cons: just one again size
Capability: 50 – 65 litres | Supplies: expedition-grade VX42 X-Pac composite material | Closure: folding prime with twin straps | Again System: 10 mm thick bodily cross-linked polyethylene foam pad | Hipbelt: barely formed, padded | Pockets: 1 inside zipped | Options: removable aspect compression straps, shockcord and ice axe loops | Sizes: 1
This pack was a revelation. In a primary search for The Nice Open air, I gave it a Greatest Purchase earlier within the yr, after utilizing it as a winter daypack. This was the primary time I’d used it for backpacking and I used to be shocked at how snug it was with a load averaging round 15kg and the way a lot I appreciated it. A mountaineering somewhat than backpacking pack in design it has no exterior pockets, simply aspect straps and entrance shockcord. The again system is easy too. Only a padded again, padded shoulder straps, and padded hip fins. There’s no body, no load lifter straps, and no lumbar pad. It’s not adjustable and there’s just one size. But it nonetheless carries a load effectively. Unsurprisingly it’s very secure on tough floor because it suits intently to the again.

Constructed to Ship X3 with moist waterproofs & tent plus foam pad on the surface. Credit score: Chris Townsend
Packing does require some adjustments from a pack with many pockets. Having gear that is perhaps wanted throughout the day in a zip-round packing dice on the prime of the pack labored effectively. When moist waterproofs have been stuffed down the entrance shockcord and the tent strapped to at least one aspect. The 50-65 litre capability was ample for all my gear plus 5 days meals.
The pack is produced from an especially powerful waterproof composite material. The smaller parts and development are far stronger than on most packs too. This pack is constructed to final. Constructed To Ship says the X3 is “extraordinarily climate resistant in rain and snow”. This was actually examined in heavy rain over a number of days and there was a bit leakage in locations however far lower than I’d have anticipated with different packs.
Learn extra: Constructed To Ship X3 Alpine Pack first look (first printed February 2023)
builttosend.com
Bach Wickiup 3 with Half-size Internal Tent – Beneficial
Ranking: 4/5
Value: £950
Weight: 1.62kg
Professionals: roomy, secure
Cons: costly, not obtainable with out full-size inside
Flysheet: siliconized ripstop nylon | Internal: 15D knitted mesh, 40D air permeable ripstop nylon | Flooring: 40D ripstop nylon with TPU laminate | Pole: TRX Eco Duralumin Jumbo 6 19.5 | Dimensions: 275cm x 220cm, 155cm excessive level
The Bach Wickiup 3 (previously branded Nigor) is a pyramid tent that I like very a lot because it’s very roomy with glorious headroom and secure in storms.

The Bach Wickiup 3 with Half-size Internal Tent pitched by Loch Morar. Credit score: Chris Townsend
Because it was the beginning of the midge season – and there have been some round at instances – I took the non-compulsory half-size inside tent. This retains the bugs out however does scale back the flexibility and area a bit – the partitions sag – in addition to including to the load. When there are not any bugs, I want to simply use a groundsheet that may be moved round within the inside.
This tent carried out effectively. The Wickiup with only a groundsheet could be extra spacious and an identical weight however not midgeproof.
bach-equipment.com
Hilleberg Anaris – Greatest Purchase
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Ranking: 4.5/5
Value: £705
Weight: 1.4kg
Professionals: roomy, secure
Cons: costly
Design: transverse ridge | Flysheet: Kerlon 1000 20D silicone Ripstop Nylon 5000mm hydrostatic head | Internal: mesh doorways, 10D nylon roof | Flooring: PU 50D nylon, 12000mm hydrostatic head | Poles: makes use of trekking poles | Porches: 2 | Internal Dimensions: 220 x 120 cm, 105cm excessive in centre
The Hilleberg Anaris is a two-person tent with two massive vestibules and so luxurious for one. It’s not heavy, 225g lighter than the Wickup 3 with half-inner actually. It does transfer a bit extra in sturdy winds than the Wickiup because of the massive unsupported sides nevertheless it’s not noisy and I used to be by no means involved about stability. I a lot most well-liked the spaciousness of the inside in contrast with the Wickiup 3, particularly in unhealthy climate.

Hilleberg Anaris within the wind on the Lengthy Seashore campsite, Inverie. Credit score: Chris Townsend
The Anaris pitches with trekking poles, which helps preserve the load down. This does imply there aren’t obtainable for excursions from camp, so I didn’t have my Pacerpoles for the steep rocky ascent of Ben Aden. It in all probability did me good to not depend on them!
This tent carried out effectively. Total, I most well-liked the Anaris to the Wickiup for the spacious inside and the decrease weight.
Learn extra: Hilleberg Anaris full evaluation (first printed 2021)
hilleberg.com
PHD Ok Hispar 400 – Beneficial
Ranking: 4/5
Value: £957
Weight: 725 gm (Customary)
Professionals: ultralight, wonderful heat for the load, size & width choices
Cons: very costly, quick zip, solely obtainable from PHD
Fill: 400 grams 1000FP down | Shell: Ultrashell ripstop nylon | Building: field wall | Zip: half-length | Sizes: 4 lengths, 4 widths | Ranking: -9°C
Provided that the bottom in a single day temperature was 7° and that was solely on two nights each the sleeping baggage I took have been hotter than essential. One nevertheless was rather more versatile than the opposite and so extra snug. I anticipated colder nights, a minimum of at the beginning.
The PHD Hispar 400 is an astonishingly heat bag for the load and really snug if it’s chilly sufficient. Nevertheless, it solely has a half-length zip on one aspect. With this undone that aspect of me typically felt chilly, despite the fact that the remainder of my physique and my ft have been scorching. Zipped up all of me was scorching.

The Hispar 400 – a very good winter bag. Credit score: Chris Townsend
Now, I did sleep effectively within the bag, which I used for the primary 4 nights, and I might in all probability have managed for the hotter second a part of the journey.
The Hispar is offered with a full-length zip, which might have been extra versatile as then it could possibly be used as a quilt. For me, the Hispar 400 is a winter bag.
Learn extra: PHD Ok Hispar 400 full evaluation (first printed 2016)
Sierra Designs Cloud 800 – Greatest Purchase
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Ranking: 5/5
Value: £300
Weight: 875g (Reg)
Professionals: light-weight, comforter design, foot vent
Cons: costly
Fill: 419g grams 800fp DriDown Shell 15D nylon ripstop | Building: field wall | Zip: no | Size: common 198cm, lengthy 213cm | Ranking: consolation -3C, consolation restrict -10C
Provided that the bottom in a single day temperature was 7° and that was solely on two nights each the sleeping baggage I took have been hotter than essential. One nevertheless was rather more versatile than the opposite and so extra snug. I anticipated colder nights, a minimum of at the beginning.
The Sierra Designs Cloud 800 proved very best for the circumstances, as a result of it’s so simply vented.
As an alternative of a zipper there’s a big wraparound comforter which might simply be adjusted to chill you down plus a slot close to the foot for sticking your ft out. On the underside there’s an uninsulated sleeve for a sleeping mat.
I don’t use this because it restricts motion. I discover it stays beneath me anyway. Having the comforter somewhat than a zipper means you may simply fling it apart and sit up – no fumbling for a zipper or drawcord. I like this bag!
sierradesigns.com
Therm-A-Relaxation NeoAir XLite NXT – Greatest Purchase & TGO Gear Awards Winner
Ranking: 4.5/5
Value: £210
Weight: 390g (Reg)
Professionals: light-weight, very compact, very snug
Cons: costly
Sort: air mattress | Supplies: nylon with reflective inside coating | Dimensions: 183 x 51cms | Thickness: 7.6 cms | R-Worth: 4.5 | Sizes: 4
The winner of The Nice Open air’ Gear Awards 2023 within the tenting tech class, the NeoAir XLite has been up to date, making it hotter at no additional weight. The mat weighs provides an R-rating of 4.5 (the earlier model was 4.2), making it one thing that may probably be used all yr spherical. What’s extra, Therm-a-Relaxation seems to have listened to complaints from backpackers concerning the earlier mannequin and its rustling problem.

The Therm-A-Relaxation NeoAir XLite contained in the Bach Wickiup 3 with half-inner tent. Credit score: Chris Townsend
The mat options Therm-a-Relaxation’s glove-friendly WingLock valve and may be inflated utilizing a pump sack that comes with it. It’s obtainable in 4 sizes and there’s additionally an oblong model.
Learn extra: Therm-A-Relaxation NeoAir XLite NXT full evaluation as examined by Peter Macfarlane (first printed 2023)
thermarest.com
Therm-A-Relaxation NeoAir UberLite – Beneficial
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Ranking: 4/5
Value: £235
Weight: 250g (Reg)
Professionals: ultralight, heat, tiny packed measurement
Cons: costly
Sort: airbed | Supplies: 15D nylon | Dimensions: 183 x 51cm | Thickness: 6.4cm | Ranking R-value: 2.3 | Sizes: 4
With a forecast that instructed nights could possibly be frosty the primary week (they have been nowhere close to that actually) I began out with the NeoAir XLite NXT mat, which simply copes with chilly floor. It’s very snug, particularly if not absolutely inflated, light-weight and packs pretty small. I reckon it’s glorious for year-round use in Britain. The brand new NXT model doesn’t crackle a lot once you transfer on it too, which is an enchancment.

Drying gear, sitting on the Multimat Superlite 8 closed cell foam mat. Credit score: Chris Townsend
The NeoAir UberLite actually is ultralight. It packs right down to a tiny bundle too. Nevertheless I didn’t discover it as snug because the XLite. Put a lot strain on any level, say together with your elbow, and it touches the bottom. I discovered it more durable to regulate the strain for consolation too. To maintain the load down the shell is skinny and feels unsubstantial in comparison with the XLite. The UberLite does weigh 140 grams much less however I’d somewhat have the XLite.
I additionally carried a Multimat Superlite 8 closed cell foam mat weighing 171 grams in case one of many NeoAir mats failed and to make use of at relaxation stops and out of doors the tent. Being cumbersome it was carried on the surface of the pack.
thermarest.com
Path Designs Traditional Ti-Tri – Greatest Purchase
Ranking: 5/5
Weight: 156 grams
Value: $80
Professionals: ultralight, windproof, easy
Cons: minimal flame management
Cone materials: titanium | Burner: aluminium with inside batting and screw-top lids | Fuels: meths, alcohol
As I used to be in no hurry on this journey, I didn’t want a range that boiled water quick so I took my favorite Traditional Ti-Tri range system with the unique 12-20 aluminium drinks can burner. I used Fireplace Dragon Gel Gasoline and topped up my gasoline bottle after I returned to my automobile with Tony. Boiling round a litre of water a day (relying on how a lot espresso I made) I used round 700ml of gasoline in complete over the ten days I used the range (I ate in cafes in Inverie).

Kitchen within the Hilleberg Anaris porch within the rain. Path Designs Traditional Tri-Ti range system. Credit score: Chris Townsend
The range labored effectively as at all times, its wind resistance being a boon when the wind swept by the porch, as did within the Anaris the place the outer doorways don’t come right down to the bottom. It suits my Evernew 0.9 litre titanium pot, now effectively over twenty years previous, and the 2 have been on so many journeys with me they’re previous buddies.
Learn extra: Path Designs Traditional Ti-Tri full evaluation (first printed 2015)
traildesigns.com
Inov-8 Rocfly G390 – Greatest Purchase
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Ranking: 5/5
Value: £160
Weight: 818g (measurement 9)
Professionals: light-weight, sturdy, good grip, huge match
Cons: nothing
Uppers: mesh with overlays | Sole: Graphene-Grip | Sizes: males 6-14, girls 3-8.5
Having used them with success on a two-night journey in Glen Affric earlier within the yr, I made a decision to put on these very breathable light-weight Inov-8 boots. Really, though referred to as boots they’re extra like a path shoe with a better than standard ankle. They’ve a large match that’s excellent for me.
With mesh uppers and no waterproof inside they don’t preserve out rain or perhaps a splash from a puddle. They have been soaked the primary day and solely dried out a few instances for brief intervals for the remainder of the journey. I quickly bought used to moist ft. The gentle temperatures meant my ft have been by no means chilly and the boots by no means rubbed or brought on blisters.

Chris sporting the Rocflys. Credit score: Chris Townsend
I wore Falke TK1 socks contained in the boots.
From the Affric journey I knew the boots had good grip and a very good cushioning midsole. They coped with the tough Knoydart terrain with out issues.
inov-8.com
Out of doors Analysis Helium AscentShell – Greatest Purchase
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Ranking: 4.5/5
Value: £321
Weight: 330g (measurement L)
Professionals: low weight, breathability
Cons: costly, entrance hood adjustment
Supplies: bluesign® authorised AscentShell™ and Pertex® Defend Air Diamond Fuse 30D ripstop nylon | Hood: helmet suitable, entrance, and rear adjustment, stiffened and wired peak | Entrance Closure: YKK AquaGuard zip with inside flap | Underarm/Facet Zips: no | Pockets: 2 handwarmer, exterior & inside chest, 2 inside stretch mesh | Hem: adjustable drawcord | Cuffs: Velcro | Sizes: males S-XXL, girls XS-L
I debated taking an ultralight waterproof however the forecast for the primary week persuaded me towards that and I took this light-weight one as an alternative as I reckoned it might be higher in extended rain and robust winds. It was glorious. I stayed dry and felt protected within the worst storms. Breathability was good and the jacket snug to put on. The outer feels fairly powerful regardless of being mild too.
The design is purposeful although the entrance hood drawcords could be simpler to make use of if exterior the jacket. Having to open the jacket to regulate them in a storm isn’t one thing I wish to do. Because it was, I simply used the rear quantity adjuster after I wished to loosen or tighten the hood, which did imply it typically flopped over my eyes or pulled again spherical my ears. This wasn’t an enormous downside although.
I carried my smartphone within the chest pocket, and it stayed dry (the cellphone is waterproof anyway). As I didn’t must put on a heat layer beneath the jacket, only a t-shirt and skinny long-sleeved shirt, the match was a bit free, however this didn’t have an effect on the breathability. I believe this can be a nice waterproof jacket for backpacking journeys. It’s light-weight, breathable, and protecting.
Learn extra: Out of doors Analysis Helium AscentShell full evaluation (first printed 2023)
outdoorresearch.com
BAM Origin Air Bamboo T-shirt – Beneficial
Ranking: 4.5/5
Value: £29
Weight: 175 grams (measurement L)
Professionals: tender material, very snug, low value
Cons: gradual drying in comparison with synthetics
Cloth: 68% bamboo viscose/28% natural cotton/4% elastane | Sizes: males S-XXXL, girls 8-18
I had beforehand worn this T-shirt in scorching climate and located it glorious. On this journey I wore it beneath a shirt, and sometimes a water-resistant as effectively, as there was little heat climate. As a base layer it labored rather well, which shocked me as I believed it may not be breathable sufficient beneath different layers.
I wore it day-after-day for the 2 weeks with out washing it and it stayed snug and didn’t scent. On strenuous climbs it did get a bit damp however didn’t really feel chilly and shortly dried regardless of the cotton content material. The material may be very tender and feels good subsequent to the pores and skin.

Drying gear, sitting on the Multimat Superlite 8 closed cell foam mat, sporting the BAM t-shirt and Mammut Runbold trousers. Credit score: Chris Townsend
On just a few events I might have appreciated lengthy sleeves as my arms felt chilly however by no means for lengthy sufficient for it to be disagreeable. BAM does make a long-sleeved model, the Origin Air Bamboo Lengthy Sleeved High, with the identical material combine.
My T-shirt has a print design on it. These value £3 greater than the plain ones.
bambooclothing.co.uk
Paramo Katmai Gentle – Greatest Purchase
Ranking: 5/5
Value: £80
Weight: 210 grams (measurement M)
Professionals: silky material, roomy pockets, huge cuffs, fairly mild
Cons: nothing
Cloth: Parameta A polyester | Entrance closure: buttons | Pockets: 2 Velcro-closed, 1 zipped safety, 1 zipped map | Cuffs: Velcro | Vents: none | Sizes: males: S-XXL, girls: XS-XL (Socorro Shirt – no Velcro pockets)
The Katmai Gentle has been my favorite heat climate climbing shirt for a few years. I often solely put on it after I count on it to be my outer layer more often than not. I hoped that may be so on this journey, nevertheless it wasn’t to be and the shirt was worn beneath a water-resistant jacket more often than not and a windproof jacket a lot of the remainder. It nonetheless labored effectively, although I don’t suppose it might have been as snug with out the BAM t-shirt beneath it as my arms typically felt a bit damp and chilly. It does dry quick although.

In Glen Dessary. Paramo Katmai shirt, Mammut Runbold trousers, Pacerpoles. Credit score: Chris Townsend
The polyester material is tender and comfy and was nonetheless like that after two weeks put on. I like the massive bellows chest pockets that simply maintain smartphone and pocket book and the huge Velcro-closed cuffs with no slits to let midges in and which permit nice air flow when open. The sleeves can simply be rolled up too (not a function I wanted on this journey).
paramo.co.uk
Different clothes
All through the journey I wore Mammut Runbold trousers. Within the rain I wore Montane Minimus overtrousers over them. For warmwear I had the lengthy discontinued Berghaus VapourLight HyperTherm jacket (it’s price noting that the brand new Berghaus Extrem Arete artificial hoody may be very comparable) which I wore within the tent often and the Patagonia Micro Puff Hoody, which I by no means wore and didn’t want (however I may need completed). When it was windy however not moist, as on the ascent of Ben Aden, I wore a Patagonia Houdini windproof jacket and a Paramo Cap.