Loowit Trail: Guide to Backpacking Around Mount St. Helens

The Loowit Path is a tricky, partaking, and logistically easy 2-4 day backpacking journey in Washington state. In the event you’re prepared for it, this difficult ~28 mile loop round Mount St. Helens will reward you with massive views, distinctive terrain, and a felt sense of nature’s energy as you hike round an lively volcano that final erupted, tragically killing 57 individuals, in 1980.

At this time some life has returned to the St. Helens “blast zone” however the mountain continues to be in flux. As you hike round Mt. St. Helens on the Loowit Path you possibly can actually really feel the panorama shift beneath your ft. I backpacked the Loowit Path this previous September and was struck by its distinctive taste, so completely different from the mountain routes I normally gravitate to. As a substitute of lengthy grinding climbs to excessive passes, the Loowit affords continuously undulating terrain, brief steep climbs and descents, and numerous gullies… oh so many gullies!

The Loowit Path is just not the one well-known PNW path to circumnavigate a volcano, however it feels just like the wildest. It’s much less well-manicured than the close by Timberline and Wonderland trails, and fewer well-traveled. Whereas gingerly choosing my manner down steep slippery slopes and throughout slim off-camber trails, I loved pondering the truth that some components of the Loowit Path is not going to be in the identical place subsequent season.

Aspirational backpackers take be aware: lengthy sections of delicate footing mix with restricted water and tenting to make the Loowit Path an advanced-level backpacking journey. In case you have comparatively light-weight gear, can backpack at the very least 9 miles in a single day, do your homework on water and tenting, and luxuriate in a bit of mild scrambling, I’m certain you’ll respect this wild and rugged path. For everybody else I’m afraid I don’t advocate it.

Associated: 6 Backpacking Loop Trails within the Pacific Northwest

Loowit Path At A Look

Map and Navigation

The Loowit Path, additionally known as path #216, is pretty properly signed at virtually each junction. Within the lava fields, the place the path typically disappears in a jumble of volcanic boulders, you’ll see tall posts marking the overall route. Search for cairns (rock piles) marking the present greatest path throughout eroding gullies. 

Although navigating the Loowit Path is comparatively simple, it’s all the time vital to have a very good offline map when climbing within the backcountry. You by no means know if you would possibly make a fallacious flip, develop into confused, or lose your manner the place the path turns into faint in a gully or rock discipline. I take advantage of AllTrails app with the premium membership that enables offline navigation; don’t count on to have cellphone service on the path. Gaia GPS is one other standard app with related pricing and performance. 

In the event you’d like to hold a paper map – beneficial as a backup to your digital system particularly for solo hikers – the Nationwide Geographic Trails Illustrated is an effective one. We selected to not carry a paper map on this journey as a result of we hiked collectively as a pair and each had the route downloaded to our telephones, serving as one another’s backup.

When to Hike

The Loowit Path is a summer time hike. It’s normally doable from July to September, although that window varies from 12 months to 12 months. The largest concerns are lingering snow, climate, water crossings, and water sources. 

Lingering snow: The slopes of Mt. St. Helens maintain snow all through the winter and spring. In summers following an particularly snowy winter there could also be snow on the path properly into July. On low snow years the path may be accessible beginning in June. Examine for latest path stories on AllTrails to see how circumstances are progressing.

Climate: At any time in the course of the summer time you need to be ready for rain and even snow, although it’s extra seemingly you’ll battle with the warmth and unrelenting solar on the route’s many uncovered treeless miles. By late September or early October the possibilities of rainfall improve, common temperatures drop (count on below-freezing nights), and early storms could mud the path with snow. Examine the climate forecast earlier than heading out!

Water crossings: The Loowit Path crosses many gullies and streambeds in its circumnavigation of St. Helens, and whereas snow is melting up excessive these streams and rivers are flowing strongly. Water crossings are an even bigger concern earlier within the season, and a few – just like the Toutle River – could also be troublesome and harmful to cross. By mid to late August most years the water crossings have calmed down. 

Water sources: Because the snow melts out of the excessive nation, the water crossings develop into simpler and the smaller streams dry up. This leaves late-season hikers with longer water carries between the few dependable sources (extra on this beneath).

Different concerns: Wildflowers are at their greatest earlier, all through July or August. Mosquitoes are additionally extra plentiful throughout this time, although not a serious downside on this path. Late-season hikers have fewer daytime to hike and extra darkish hours to cross within the tent, however will get pleasure from some fall colours right here and there.

With all that in thoughts, my most well-liked time to hike the Loowit Path on a median snowpack 12 months can be mid-August. We hiked in mid-September as a result of that’s once we had been obtainable and within the space, and nonetheless loved our hike very a lot. However we did should plan water rigorously, verify the climate forecast and plan for a very good window, and the nights had been a bit chilly. On the intense aspect, crossing the Toutle River was a non-issue.

Entry Trailheads

The Loowit Path, being a loop, is fantastically easy in its logistics. There aren’t any trailheads immediately on the route however the path intersects entry trails each few miles to kind the brief “stem” of a “lollipop” route. The shortest of those entry trails is June Lake at 1.5 miles every manner. The longest is Ape Canyon at 5.5 miles every manner.

Selecting a trailhead is usually a matter of deciding the way you wish to break up the hike, particularly in relation to the 9 mile no-camping zone and the lengthy dry stretches late in the summertime. 

The 2 hottest beginning trailheads are June Lake and Climber’s Bivouac / Ptarmigan, each within the south and each comparatively brief and environment friendly methods to succeed in the Loowit. When climbing clockwise both of those makes for a stable first day (9 miles for June Lake or 12 miles for Climber’s Bivouac after reaching the primary loop) ending on the Toutle River, which marks the beginning of the no tenting part. This lets you begin the no tenting part very first thing within the morning of day 2 so you have got one of the best shot at making it by way of in someday. Some individuals additionally begin at Windy Path, close to the japanese finish of the no tenting zone, and hike counter-clockwise to succeed in the Toutle River on the western finish on their first evening.

Different components to think about embody: if you wish to do probably the most rugged western miles, the place you’re coming from and the way far you’re prepared to drive, how a lot further mileage and climb the entry path provides, whether or not there’s a parking payment on the trailhead, and time of day you’ll be crossing the Toutle River (morning is best when circulate is larger).

June Lake is without doubt one of the best trailheads to drive to (all paved) and the shortest method hike, however it’s a smaller trailhead with fewer parking spots and the realm is standard with day hikers. Throughout peak season you would possibly want the bigger Climber’s Bivouac lot. There may be additionally walkable overflow parking on the Sno Park simply previous to the June Lake lot.

It’s attainable to camp, both in a tent or your automobile, at each June Lake and Climber’s Bivouac trailheads. That is seemingly attainable at different trailheads too – verify rules for the one you’re fascinated with. 

Which Route to Hike

You possibly can backpack the Loowit Path both clockwise or counterclockwise from any entry trailhead. The selection depends upon your deliberate each day mileage, water sources, and whether or not you wish to frontload the slowest and hardest miles (for my part, the western aspect between June Lake and Toutle River) or work as much as them. 

One factor to notice is that the campsites on the Toutle River is on the southern financial institution, a bit up from the underside of the canyon. Early in the summertime this river crossing may be excessive and quick late within the day however will probably be simpler very first thing within the morning. In the event you begin on the southern aspect of the loop (June Lake or Climber’s Bivouac trailheads) and hike clockwise, you possibly can camp earlier than the river crossing and put it aside for the next morning. 

Opinions appear to vary about which part is the slowest and hardest, however I’d say it’s the western aspect between June Lake and the Toutle River. This part has giant boulder fields that can gradual even probably the most nimble hiker, and backpackers with heavy packs might want to actually take their time. We had been proud of our option to get these miles achieved on day 1 so our third day was simpler, however some hikers would possibly want to hit them on the finish of their hike when packs are lighter and path legs have been discovered.

How Many Days?

What number of days will it take to backpack the Loowit Path? The full distance is round 28 miles in the event you hike from June Lake or Climber’s Bivouac trailheads, however a number of the miles are lengthy and gradual. We hiked the Loowit Path in 2.5 days and thought that was a difficult however not grueling tempo. We had been additionally coping with shorter daytime on the finish of September; summer time hikers may have extra time to squeeze within the miles. 

Most backpackers full the Loowit Path in about three days. Match hikers with light-weight gear can push for 2 days, whereas extra leisurely of us will probably be happier with 4 days. Stretching to greater than 4 days is difficult because of the lengthy no-camping zone; you’ll have to hike at the very least one 9+ mile day to backpack round St. Helens. 

The Loowit Path is just not a very quick hike. The miles come slowly in lots of locations, particularly the boulder fields and rope-assisted scrambles of the west aspect and the steep and slippery gullies all through. Permit further time for exact and cautious footing right here.

The Loowit Path can also be standard with path runners and bold day hikers making an attempt to circle the mountain in a single day. It’s actually an aesthetically interesting problem, however solely suited to these with the health and agile footwork to traverse so many difficult miles effectively in a single push.

Loowit Path Itineraries

Tenting

There’s a 9 mile lengthy day-use solely part within the St. Helens “blast zone” between the Toutle River and Windy Cross, the northern aspect of the loop. This space, often known as the pumice plain, is a fragile and vital scientific analysis space. Backpackers should cowl this part in a single day, with out tenting. Right here’s a map displaying this zone and different useful information.

Elsewhere alongside the Loowit Path, tenting is allowed following the standard Go away No Hint tips: camp in established websites, bury human waste at the very least 200 ft from water sources (see The right way to Poop within the Woods in the event you’re not clear on the main points), and pack out every little thing you introduced in. Talking of which, I encourage you, please pack out your used rest room paper! I noticed an excessive amount of proof of poor rest room habits on the Loowit Path. We are able to do higher!

Once we backpacked the Loowit Path we camped on the Toutle River and the Ape Canyon Path junction (dry). They had been each good spots. The Toutle River has good websites up a bit from the water (a brief scramble down and again in the event you want water for the evening). The Ape Canyon Path junction is dry and a bit uncovered – we had a windy evening there – however with wonderful views and a number of websites.

Meals Storage

There aren’t any meals storage necessities on the Loowit Path and bears aren’t identified to be an issue. Nonetheless, small critters can develop into a nuisance in the event that they develop a style for hiker meals. We noticed loads of chipmunks within the space, although none had been significantly fascinated with our meals. Nonetheless, it’s greatest to retailer meals responsibly and safely by hanging it (maybe in an Ursack Main or Minor) or sleeping with it. 

Ingesting Water

Ingesting water can require some planning on the Loowit Path, particularly in the event you hike throughout sizzling climate late in the summertime when the smaller streams have dried up. It’s manageable however you’ll have to plan forward; don’t count on to only scoop up a bottle of stream water each few miles. A water capability of about 4 liters per particular person is suitable for the Loowit Path, probably extra if climbing in sizzling climate and/or planning to dry camp.

Early in the summertime, as snow is melting up on St. Helens, the Loowit Path crosses many small streams. These are handy however typically silty, which might clog hole core water filters and render UV purifiers ineffective. Chlorine dioxide is an effective purification methodology for one of these water. No matter you do, undoubtedly deal with your water on the Loowit Path to keep away from getting illnesses like Giardia. For more information see Water Filters for Backpacking.

In the event you hike later in the summertime after most snow has melted (normally by mid-to-late August), most of those smaller streams will probably be dry and also you’ll have to plan extra rigorously. A few of the most dependable main water sources for late within the season are:

June Lake (steep ¼ mile off route)1 mile from the Butte Camp / Loowit Junction on the Butte Camp Path (1 mile off route)Toutle RiverSpring close to Windy Path junction (¼ mile earlier than junction going clockwise). Additionally seemingly a stream on this space as properly.

Journey stories on AllTrails are very useful for understanding the present water scenario. Search for latest stories, or stories from final 12 months across the time you propose to hike (holding in thoughts snowpack variation from 12 months to 12 months) to know which sources are drying up and which can nonetheless be flowing. The Loowit Path has little shade and summer time days may be sizzling, so that you would possibly want extra water than anticipated. At the very least 4 liters of water capability is beneficial if backpacking in mid-to-late summer time when the smaller streams have dried up.

I attempted a brand new water carrying system on this journey: the Smartwater Bottle drink tube from One Bottle Hydration. I’ve lengthy been a hydration bladder fan since I can’t attain bottles in my pack’s aspect pockets, however this method is one of the best of each worlds and my new go-to. Be taught extra concerning the professionals and cons in The right way to Carry Water Whereas Backpacking.

Water Crossings

The Loowit Path is bisected by seemingly innumerable gullies and streambeds. Early in the summertime when snow is melting shortly, these may be difficult to cross. The Toutle River is more likely to be the trickiest. Remember to observe secure practices for water crossings and don’t try to cross in the event you don’t really feel secure. 

Water crossings are decrease and slower very first thing within the morning, earlier than the day’s warmth has begun melting snow up excessive. If doubtful, contemplate tenting and making an attempt the crossing within the morning (a very good cause to hike clockwise from the southern aspect of the loop, so you possibly can legally camp on the south financial institution of the Toutle and cross within the morning if wanted).

Latest journey stories on AllTrails could assist you get a way of the water crossing scenario and whether or not it’s more likely to be an issue for you.

Permits for the Loowit Path

No allow is required to hike, run, or backpack the Loowit Path right now of writing. 

A few of the entry trailheads, reminiscent of Climber’s Bivouac, do require a parking payment. This could normally be paid in money at a fee of $5 per day, or by displaying a Northwest Forest Cross in your automobile. Analysis your entry trailhead on-line to search out particulars. 

St. Helens Summit Aspect Journey

As you hike the southern aspect of the Loowit Path you’ll cross two “climbing” routes utilized by these summiting Mount St. Helens. The Monitor Ridge route is the popular summer time route, and Worm Flows is the winter route (but in addition used in the summertime).

It might be tempting to think about working a summit try into your backpacking journey round Mount St. Helens. Whereas the summit climb is nontechnical, it’s extraordinarily strenuous and normally an all-day affair even with a pre-dawn alpine begin. Additionally, a allow is required to summit St. Helens and the applying is aggressive.

Different Path Customers

The Loowit Path is alleged to be a lot much less crowded than many others within the space, and we actually discovered this to be true once we hiked it (mid-week in mid-September, so not probably the most high-use time). We met a handful of runners tackling the Loowit in a day, a couple of day hikers, and only a couple backpackers. Each nights we had our complete tenting space to ourselves with a number of empty websites close by. 

In contrast, once we hiked the close by Timberline Path every week later (extra beneath on the comparability between these two trails) we noticed dozens, if not lots of, of backpackers and day hikers. Granted it was a weekend, however it was additionally a chilly and wet interval on the very finish of September and we had been informed the excessive season is rather more crowded.

Equestrians and inventory will not be permitted on the Loowit Path, and also you’ll see why when you’re on it; the path isn’t steady sufficient to accommodate them in lots of locations. Mountain bikes are allowed besides within the no-camping zone, however the one part that’s actually rideable is a brief stretch on the japanese aspect between Abraham and Ape Canyon junctions. Canines are technically allowed exterior the no-camping zone as properly, however are likely to battle with the sharp lava rock so that you received’t see too lots of them. In brief, in the event you want solitude to busy trails, the Loowit is an effective selection for you. 

Rope-Assisted Scrambles

Three brief rope-assisted scrambles are a singular and fascinating characteristic of the Loowit Path. In the event you relish a wee bit of pleasure in your hikes, you’ll in all probability get pleasure from overcoming these transient obstacles. In case you have a worry of heights or publicity, they could be a bit irritating for you. 

All three rope sections are close to one another on the west aspect of the loop. Mountaineering clockwise you’ll encounter the primary (and steepest, for my part, although I’m certain they differ from 12 months to 12 months) a couple of miles earlier than the Toutle River. The opposite two lead into and out of the Toutle River canyon. 

The ropes are mounted by the forest service, look like in good situation, and are thoughtfully positioned with redundant anchors and protecting sheathing the place needed. Nonetheless, it’s all the time sensible to look them over and provides a take a look at pull earlier than committing your weight. 

In the event you’re nervous about these sections, I can let you know – as somebody with a reasonable worry of heights and publicity – they may get your coronary heart beating a bit of sooner however they aren’t that unhealthy. They’re brief and also you’re not more likely to get too badly damage in the event you slip. Simply take it gradual and regular, one step at a time, and also you’ll be up or down very quickly! It is going to assist to stow your climbing poles, when you have them (and I extremely advocate climbing poles for backpacking the Loowit) so each fingers are free to seize the rope.

Path Overview by Part

From the trailhead to June Lake is a large and principally mild climb. After the lake (and a few good campsites) the path steepens for 1 / 4 mile to affix the Loowit, the primary style of difficult grades to come back.

Between June Lake junction and the beginning of the large descent to the Toutle River, the path alternates between forest and lava fields. The lava fields are huge piles of rocks and boulders, gradual to traverse as a result of it takes time to search out secure footing and observe the right route. We misplaced the path a couple of instances however all the time made our manner efficiently by heading towards the subsequent tall submit. 

Ultimately we encountered the primary of the rope-assisted scrambles. It was steep on the prime and took a little bit of dedication to descend (down is usually more durable than up), however the rope was in good situation. For my part this primary one (going clockwise from the south) is the trickiest — get it achieved and the remainder will probably be enjoyable and simple!

The descent to the Toutle River contains some dramatic views and beautiful outdated development forest, particularly idyllic within the late-afternoon mild. Simply earlier than the rope main right down to the river there are a selection of campsites on either side of the path; we selected one on the proper with nice views over the river. We did should make a brief journey down and as much as fetch water, however I’d extremely advocate tenting at these websites as an alternative of down within the canyon. They’re rather more scenic, hotter, quieter, and have much less danger of rockfall (search for if you’re crossing the river and also you’ll know what I imply!). 

We noticed solely a pair different path customers at the present time, and no different backpackers. We had the campsites on the river all to ourselves and loved a stunning sundown. 

The climb from the river was steep and inexperienced. Ultimately the surroundings opened up and we loved wonderful views of St. Helens. Typically the footing was sandy, however the surroundings on this part make for nice climbing.

Crossing a cross we entered the “blast zone” or pumice plain the place foliage is sparse and views stretch in each route. This part was principally simple, just some steep gullies to cross with some sooner miles combined in. It’s additionally a really fascinating part the place you possibly can observe life slowly returning after being obliterated by the eruption simply over 40 years in the past.

We discovered good water close to the tip of the no tenting zone, within the type of a gushing spring simply earlier than Windy Path junction and a pair streams shortly earlier than that. We stuffed up 4 liters every on the spring, anticipating this to be our final fill of the hike.

With heavy packs we picked our manner up Windy Cross. The path was a bit unfastened and sketchy, however general a brief climb. The descent to the wide-open Plains of Abraham is simpler however nonetheless slippery, and the views are dramatic. Right here we met a couple of mountain bikers headed to the Ape Canyon Path, and loved some simpler flat strolling. 

We thought of tenting on the Pumice Butte websites, however the spring was dry and we nonetheless had loads of daytime so we continued to the junction with Ape Canyon Path. The websites listed below are additionally dry, however the views are nice and we had the place completely to ourselves. Sadly this space is pretty uncovered and a powerful wind blew in after darkish, rattling our tarp all evening lengthy. 

On the proper time of the summer time, this aspect of the mountain could give you a free snack within the type of ripe huckleberries. In the event you don’t know what huckleberries appear to be, right here’s an vital tip: edible huckleberries appear to be blueberries. You might also see clusters of little crimson berries alongside the path — these are NOT huckleberries and we predict they could be toxic. Don’t eat the clustered crimson berries!

In the end the rocky path gave strategy to smoother forested path, and the remaining brief part to June Lake junction handed shortly. We had been glad to have began at June Lake and have the slower miles to Climber’s Bivouac Path behind us now. We had been again on the automobile by 11am, having beat the rain!

Mountaineering Solo?

Although I hiked the Loowit Path with my husband, I additionally love climbing and adventuring solo. In the event you’re questioning whether or not the Loowit Path is an acceptable path to backpack solo, right here’s my two cents.

Skilled backpackers will in all probability really feel snug climbing the Loowit Path solo besides presumably early within the season when water crossings, particularly the Toutle River, may be difficult. In the event you’re not skilled with water crossings having a associate would add a margin of security. Later within the season, when snowmelt has slowed, you’re unlikely to have points. In the event you’re uncomfortable with heights and publicity you may additionally want a buddy for the rope-assisted scrambles.

Chilly and stormy climate may also be a hazard, and all hikers must be ready for this, solo or not. In sizzling climate be further cautious to hold sufficient water and plan refills rigorously. Chances are you’ll not meet many different hikers every day, so that you’ll must be completely self-reliant. However when you have the expertise, gear, and expertise to hike the Loowit, there’s no cause you possibly can’t do it alone. Go and luxuriate in some solitude!

Loowit Path vs. Timberline Path

Backpacking Gear

I all the time advocate a comparatively light-weight backpacking gear setup as a result of it’s extra snug and enjoyable, and that is very true for the Loowit Path. Many sections require cautious footwork and good steadiness. A heavy pack can be quite a lot of further work and probably dangerous if it results in sloppy footing.

Listed below are a number of the key gear gadgets I take advantage of on most backpacking journeys, and on the Loowit Path particularly. For extra, see my favourite backpacking gear.

Backpacks: We each carried ULA Circuits. We love them as a result of they’re light-weight, adjustable, and have a really versatile 68 liter capability. On this brief path we saved them cinched right down to a smaller quantity, however additionally they increase to handle 7-day meals carries when wanted.

Sleep: Therm-a-Relaxation NeoAir XLite sleeping pads (heat and lightweight) and Enlightened Tools Convert quilts with artificial hoods. The Convert is a superb center floor between a sleeping bag and a light-weight quilt as a result of the total zipper helps stop drafts in cooler temps. 

Shelter: Borah Gear bivvies and a Six Moon Designs Haven tarp. We love this setup for backpacking as a pair as a result of we will arrange the bivvies alone on clear nights for a bit more room and stargazing, or we will get cozy within the tarp when extra heat or climate safety is required. We ended up pitching the tarp on this journey because of menace of rain.

Footwear: Altra Lone Peak path trainers. We’ve each been climbing and operating in these for a few years and received’t put on anything. They had been greater than satisfactory for the rocky and slippery footing on the Loowit Path, and so they dry in a short time after water crossings.

Cooking: JetBoil MicroMo, tremendous quick at boiling water for rehydrating meals. Snow Peaks titanium mugs for drinks (a luxurious merchandise), Sea to Summit collapsible X-Mugs as bowls, Toaks titanium long-handled spoons.

Water: Sawyer Squeeze filter in gravity mode with CNOC Vecto 3 liter soiled bag. We used this for the clear water sources, but in addition carried some chlorine dioxide tablets in case of silty water (not used). 

Electronics: Garmin InReach Mini, Petzl Actik headlamp, energy financial institution and cables

Extra Assets