Hiking through the Land of the Giants

Jotunheimen is arguably essentially the most aptly named of Norway’s 47 Nationwide Parks. Within the native language, it interprets to “land of the Giants.” Encompassing an space of 1,151 sq km (115,100 sq mi), the park options the nation’s 23 highest peaks, a set of large glaciers, and a various vary of wildlife, together with reindeer, moose, wolverines, lynxes, and roe deer.

All through the years, I’ve been lucky to go to Jotunheimen a number of instances. My most up-to-date journey passed off in late September 2022, throughout which I accomplished a three-day, 80 km (49.7 mi) loop hike. The article under contains photographs, primary trekking notes, logistical info, gear checklist, and GPS particulars from the journey.

At a Look

Distance:  80 km (49.7 mi)

Period:  3 days

Issue Degree:  Average

Whole Elevation Achieve: 3,941 m (12,930 ft)

Begin/End: Gjendesheim Mountain Hut

Overview map of the Jotunheimen Loop (GaiaGPS).

Planning Info

Getting There & Away: Throughout the summer season months, the beginning/ending level of Gjendesheim Hut will be reached by common buses from the close by city of Lom. All through this era, a number of each day ferries ply the waters of Lake Gjende, making stops at each Memburu Hut and Gjende Hut. For these arriving by personal car, long-term parking is offered at Reinsvangen Parking Lot, situated 1.5 km (0.9 mi) stroll southwest of Gjendesheim Hut.

Season: Mid-June to late September. The staffed huts in Jotunheimen historically shut across the center of September. Those that plan to hike later (or earlier) within the season have to be self-sufficient concerning shelter and meals. 

Crossing the Skautflye plateau in late September.

Icy lakes and snow-dusted rocks

GPS: GaiaGPS. Along with the featured route, the folder additionally contains the next aspect journeys/alternates that I’ve taken on earlier journeys to Jotunheimen NP:

1. The out-and-back path to the summit of Galdhøpiggen (2,469 m/8,100 ft), Scandinavia’s highest peak.2. The path alongside Lake Gjende’s northern shore through Memburu Hut.3. The excessive route alternate to the Skautflye Plateau part through Glittertinden peak (2,452 m/8,045 ft).

Water: Ample all through the hike. Must you deal with? To be on the protected aspect, it’s greatest to purify water taken from round huts, frequent grazing areas, under treeline, or from lakes and ponds. Quick-flowing streams above treeline, or water taken from close to the supply is mostly thought of protected to drink as is.

Meals: You may carry your personal provides, purchase on the huts (late June to mid-September), or take a hybrid strategy. As I did the hike out of season, I carried all my meals from the beginning.

Wildlife Tip: Rutting season for reindeer is between the center of September and the center of October. If you’re mountain climbing throughout this era, be particularly cautious to not get too near herds, because the dominant male within the group will sometimes be much more aggressive and protecting than at different instances of the 12 months.

Reindeer herd in Veodalen Valley.

Lodging

Wild tenting is feasible all through the Jotunheimen Loop. 

Alongside the path, there are a number of full-service mountain huts the place lodging and meals will be organized. Climbing in a clockwise route, they’re as follows – Gjendesheim, Gjendebu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Glitterheim, and Memurubu. 

Some hikers undertake a hybrid strategy, tenting some nights and staying indoors on others. It’s attainable to camp close by the huts (ask the resident warden about designated areas) and use the services for a lowered charge.

If planning on overnighting within the huts throughout the peak season of July and August, it’s advisable to ebook nicely prematurely.

Campsite overlooking Russvatnet (MLD Duomid)

Protected campsite on a windy night in Jotunheimen (MLD Duomid)

Gear

I hiked the Jotunheimen Loop throughout an prolonged keep within the Nordic Area within the late summer season and fall of 2022. The journey was partly a analysis/pictures journey in preparation for a ebook I used to be writing referred to as Wanderlust Nordics: Exploring Trails in Scandinavia. For an in depth rundown of the clothes and gear I used, see my gear checklist for Greenland’s Arctic Circle Path.

Path Notes

The Jotunheimen Loop begins with a scenic boat trip throughout Lake Gjende. Departing from the pier close to Gjendesheim Hut, the journey takes about 45 minutes to achieve Gjedebu Hut, located on the far western shore of the lake. In case you take the afternoon ferry, you’ll possible both be staying right here or close by. In my case, I took the 7.45 am service, and upon arriving at Gjendebu, headed west after which northwest up Storådalen Valley.

Disembarking the ferry at Gjendebu Pier.

Fall colours in Jotunheimen

Storådalen Valley

From the outset, the path is well-marked with red-painted T symbols and regularly-spaced cairns. Staying on the true left aspect of the Storådalen valley’s watercourse, initially, you’ll wind by means of a fascinating birch forest earlier than rising above treeline. After 6 km (3.7 m), ascend steeply beside the 60 m (197 ft) excessive Hellerfossen waterfall earlier than passing a beautiful collection of lakes, the lengthiest of which is the appropriately named, Langvatnet (i.e., “Lengthy Lake”). After 5 to seven hours and roughly 20 km (12.4 mi), you’ll attain Leirvassbu Hut, a privately run mountain lodge famend for its conventional Norwegian mountain delicacies, together with regionally harvested reindeer, elk, lamb, berries, and mushrooms.

Hellerfossen waterfall

Langvatnet

Late-season crowberries

The following stage of the journey (16 km/9.9 mi) to Spiterstulen Hut is the best of the Jotunheimen Loop. Setting out from Leirvassbu, cross north of the pyramid-shaped Kyrkja Peak (2,032 m/6,667 ft) – a superb 4.5 km (2.8 mi) aspect journey if in case you have the time – earlier than descending progressively into the U-shaped Visdalen Valley. Meandering down Visdalen’s expansive wildflower-dotted flooring, the way in which is lined with outstanding 2,000 m plus peaks, together with Retailer Bukkeholstinden (2,213 m/7,260 ft), Retailer Hellstugutinden (2,347 m/7,700 ft), and Styggehøe (2,213m/7,260 ft). After 4 to 6 hours, you’ll arrive at Spiterstulen. Previously a summer season household hamlet, since 1881, Spiterstulen has grow to be an more and more widespread base for adventurers trying to make the 13 km (8.1 mi) out-and-back ascent of Galdhøpiggen (Be aware: I climbed Galdhopiggen throughout a earlier go to to Jotunheimen within the 2000s).

Visdalen Valley

Spiterstulen Hut

The trek’s third stage extends for 16 km (9.9 mi) between Spiterstulen and Glitterheim Hut.  Quickly after leaving the previous, the path climbs steeply to the northeast for about three kilometers (1.9 mi) to achieve a signposted junction. The left path goes in direction of Glittertinden Peak, at 2,452 m (8,045 ft), the second-highest mountain in Norway. Our path continues proper throughout the rocky plateau of Skautflye. On a transparent day, the views on this part are excellent, with the aforementioned Glittertinden to the northeast and Leirhøe (2,330 m/7,644 ft), Veobreatinden (2,183 m/7,162 ft), and Veobrean glacier to the south. After 10 km (6.2 mi), you’ll attain a slim, boulder-strewn cross (Velsglupen) set amongst a gaggle of small, frigid lakes. From right here, descend precipitously into the beautiful Veodalen Valley, which frequently performs host to a sizeable herd of reindeer, earlier than curling northwards alongside the Veo River to achieve Glitterheim Hut.

Leaving Visdalen Valley.

Skautflye Plateau

Velsglupen

Veodalen Valley

Veodalen Valley

Reindeer herd in Veodalen Valley.

The penultimate stage of the Loop crosses the Veo on a footbridge and heads south in direction of a large, rocky saddle (1,691 m/5,548 ft), situated roughly 1.5 hours stroll from Glitterheim. Descend progressively from the scenic excessive level to the sickle-shaped Russvatnet lake, then parallel its shoreline previous the Sundodden peninsula (which boasts an inviting sandy seashore) and a powerful 35 m (115 ft) excessive waterfall. From the lake’s southern finish, ascend to a junction on a scenic ridge overlooking Lake Gjende. From right here, hikers can both descend for one more half-hour to Memurubu Hut or proceed eastwards on the ultimate leg of the journey through the Besseggen Ridge. 

Trying again towards Glitterheim Hut.

Rocky saddle ENE of Vestre Hestlægerhøe.

Footbridge and Russvatnet lake at sundown.

Dawn over Russvatnet the next morning (MLD Duomid and Katabatic Sawatch)

Trying again towards Russvatnet on the climb as much as Besseggen Ridge.

Overlooking Lake Gjende on the junction to the Besseggen Ridge Path.

The Besseggen Ridge Path is one in all Norway’s most legendary day hikes, and for these finishing the Jotunheimen Loop, it’s arduous to think about a extra memorable option to end the journey. Steep and uncovered, the spotlight comes roughly midway alongside its spectacular 14 km (8.7 mi) course within the type of its namesake ridge, which entails a heart-pumping scramble up an uncovered and slim rocky backbone. The view from this part is Jotunheimen’s most iconic, with the turquoise-colored Gjende lake and the sapphire blue waters of Bessvatnet making essentially the most beautiful of alpine contrasts. When you’ve reached the highest of the ascent, take one remaining, very-well earned lunch or snack break earlier than heading east for an additional six kilometers (3.7 mi) to the loop’s ending level at Gjendesheim Hut. 

Lake Gjende with Memurdalen valley on the correct.

The turquoise-colored Gjende lake contrasting with the sapphire blue waters of Bjønbøltjønne.

Trying west over Lake Gjende from Besseggen Ridge (Six Moon Designs Swift X)

Lake Gjende is about 20 km lengthy, 1.5 km vast, and reaches a most depth of round 150 meters.

Crossing the Veslfjellet plateau (recognized regionally as “the roof of Besseggen”) on the northern aspect of Lake Gjende.

Starting the ultimate descent to Gjendesheim Hut.

Gjendesheim Hut

Notes & Musings

Magical Reindeer & Knife-edged Ridges

The Besseggen Ridge part of the Jotunheimen Loop is one in all Norway’s most well-known day hikes. Its standing is primarily resulting from its wondrous vistas; nonetheless, a major a part of its fame derives from its place within the Norwegian literary canon. Particularly, Henrik Ibsen’s basic work, “Peer Gynt” (1867), which tells the story of Peer’s journey from the Norwegian mountains to the desert of North Africa and again. Within the passage in query, the central character recounts his trip on the again of a reindeer alongside Gendin-Edge (i.e., Besseggen Ridge) 

“Have you ever ever chanced to see the Gendin-Edge?Nigh on 4 miles lengthy it stretches sharp earlier than you want a scythe.Down o’er glaciers, landslips, scaurs, down the toppling gray moraines, you’ll be able to see, each proper and left, straight into the tarns that slumber, black and sluggish, greater than seven hundred fathoms deep under you.Proper alongside the Edge we two clove our passage by means of the air.”

Tackling the Besseggen Ridge (sans flying reindeer).

An Alpine Congregation

Through the years, I’ve made a number of visits to Jotunheimen. With out exception, all my nights within the park have been spent tenting quite than within the full-service mountain huts. That mentioned, I’ve loved a couple of wonderful meals within the lodges, throughout which I ate and chatted with fellow hikers from around the globe. One such expertise occurred throughout my most up-to-date journey to Jotunheimen within the early autumn of 2022. Particularly on the surprisingly spacious and really well-equipped emergency hut at Spiterstulen (Be aware: The emergency hut had a number of fuel cookers, charging factors, and eating area for 15 to twenty hikers).

On this explicit night, the standard suspects included a gaggle of English guys who’d come to Norway particularly to summit Galdhopiggen, a Dutch Ultralight backpacker who was keen to debate all issues gear-related, a trio from Germany who had been on their first-ever tenting journey, and an skilled Chilean hiker who I conversed with about a variety of worldwide trails. 

These kinds of interactions between strangers that grow to be mates occur each day in mountain huts around the globe. Individuals of various ages, backgrounds, and nationalities introduced collectively by a mutual bond with the Nice Open air. In locations similar to Norway, the Alps, and New Zealand, the place alpine huts have an extended and storied historical past, sharing meals and dialog with fellow trekkers is, in some methods, as a lot part of the mountain climbing expertise because the wildlife and unbelievable pure surroundings.

Positioned on the western finish of Lake Gjende, Gjendebu Hut was established in 1871, and is the oldest hut within the Norwegian Trekking Affiliation (DNT) system.

Associated Posts

Be aware: The Jotunheimen Loop is one in all 26 featured trails in Wanderlust Nordics. My fifth collaboration with Gestalten Publishing, the ebook options all kinds of rambles in Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Greenland, and the Faroe Islands. From family-friendly day journeys to difficult multi-week treks, there’s one thing to go well with everybody from newbies to skilled vets.

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