Hiking in the Heart of Troll Country

The Trollheimen Mountains of central Norway are one of many nation’s most various mountain ranges. Positioned within the transition zone between marine and alpine environments, Trollheimen options historic woodlands, lush river valleys, crystal-clear mountain lakes, and jagged rocky peaks. Complementing the pure wonders is a wealthy and assorted human historical past. From Stone Age settlements to Iron Age burial websites to characterful turf-roof farmhouses, Trollheimen has a millennia-spanning fusion of environmental, cultural, and historic components that’s all its personal.

From a mountain climbing perspective, Trollheimen stays comparatively unknown exterior the Norwegian out of doors neighborhood. An under-the-radar gem whose identify interprets to “house of the trolls,” an evocative moniker that was coined within the latter a part of the nineteenth century as a option to drum up vacationer curiosity within the area (apparently with middling worldwide outcomes). I visited Trollheimen within the fall of 2022 as a part of an prolonged journey to the Nordic area. Throughout the journey, I did a sequence of shorter hikes—together with the Trollheimen Triangle—which ended up being included in my guide Wanderlust Nordics: Exploring Trails in Scandinavia (2023). The article under contains photographs, fundamental trekking notes, together with logistical and GPS info.

At a Look:

Distance: 58 km (36 mi)

Period: 2-3 days

Issue Degree:  Average

Complete Elevation Achieve: 2,720 m (8,924 ft)

Begin/End: Gjevilvasshytta mountain hut

Crossing the Minnilla River.

Highlights:

The attractive surroundings and autumnal shades of Svartådalen Valley.

The tarn-dotted Mellomfjellet Plateau.

Picturesque lakes on both aspect of Riarskaret Move.

Plentiful berry foraging alternatives from mid to late summer time. Additionally, on the culinary entrance, the path’s historic mountain huts have a long-established repute for serving wonderful native delicacies.

Kamtjonnin Lake

Planning Data:

Getting There & Away: Throughout summer time, a periodic bus service runs between Gjevilvasshytta Hut and the close by city of Oppdal (23 km/14.3 mi away). If you’re coming by non-public transport, parking is on the market each on the trailhead and the alternate car parking zone, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) away to the northwest.

Season: Mid-June to late September

Permits & Charges: No on each counts.

Guidebook: Ute Koninx’s Mountaineering in Norway – South: The ten Greatest Multi-Day Treks (Cicerone Press) offers an in depth abstract of the path, together with trekking notes, fundamental maps, aspect journey strategies, distance and time estimates, and logistical info. The guide is on the market in Kindle or paperback.

In search of One thing Longer?: Sadly, time was not on my aspect once I visited Trollheimen. With just a few additional days up my sleeve, I’d have appreciated to have hiked the Trollheimen SignaTur, a 152 km (94.5 mi) loop across the area. Koninx’s Cicerone Press guidebook has an in depth description of the route.

GaiaGPS Overview Map of the Trollheimen Triangle.

Water: H2O is ample all through the path. Many hikers select to filter, although water in Trollheimen is often thought-about secure to drink when taken from fast-flowing streams.

Meals: You’ll be able to both carry your personal provides, purchase on the huts, or take a hybrid method. Word that should you’re mountain climbing out of season, the huts could also be closed, and also you’ll must carry all provisions with you (which was the case once I hiked in late September 2022).

Gjevilvasshytta Hut – The beginning and ending level of the Trollheimen Triangle.

Really useful Pre or Publish-Journey Tour: Vang Burial Website: Positioned on the outskirts of Oppdal, round 20 minutes drive from the start of the Trollheimen Triangle, Gravfeltet Vang (Vang Burial Website) is the most important Iron Age Burial website in Norway and one of many greatest in northern Europe. The location consists of greater than 900 burial mounds, most of that are from the Viking Age (750 A.D. – 1050 A.D.), however a few of which date again to the early a part of the Migration Interval (300 A.D. – 700 A.D.). The scale of the mounds ranges from 3 m to 17 m (10’ – 56’) in diameter, and excavations have found a variety of things, together with swords, jewellery, and different decorative objects. The unearthed artifacts derive not solely from the Nordic area however from locations as far afield because the British Isles and southern Europe, proof of the widespread commerce connections that existed relationship again to medieval instances. The Vang Burial Website is free to go to and consists of quite a few interconnected strolling trails dotted with often spaced info boards (in Norwegian and English). 

Vang Burial Website is positioned on the crossroads of historic commerce routes, linking collectively Sunndalen and the Møre coast to the west, Trondheim Fjord to the north, and the Dovrefjell crossing within the south.

Woolly guardians of historic treasures

Lodging:

Wild tenting is feasible all through the Trollheimen Triangle. 

There are three full-service mountain huts (clockwise) alongside the path: Gjevilvasshytta, Trollheimshytta, and Jøldalshytta. Hut areas needs to be booked properly upfront through the peak summer time season in July and August.

Campsite close to the headwaters of the Gjørdøldalen Valley (Shelter pictured is the Mountain Laurel Designs DuoMid).

Path Notes:

The Trollheimen Triangle begins and ends on the historic mountain hut of Gjevilvasshytta (est. 1819), positioned a 30-minute drive from the regional hub of Oppdal. Strolling in a counter-clockwise path, the primary stage to Jøldalshytta Hut extends for 21 km (13 mi) and takes a median of 5 to seven hours to finish. Setting out from Gjevilvasshytta, the trail winds its method up via the birch forest of Gjørdøldalen Valley, rising above treeline after 5 kilometers (3.1 mi).

Turf-roofed cottage close to Gjevilvasshytta Hut.

The path then crosses a large saddle, passing beneath Høghøa Peak (1,308 m/4,291 ft) because it descends progressively into the marshy, lake-dotted Høghødalen Valley. On the 11 km (6.8 mi) mark, you’ll attain a footbridge over the Minnilla River earlier than persevering with northwards over rolling fells to Skrikhøa Peak (1,061 m/3,481 ft). From right here, you’ll be afforded far-reaching views over the Gammelsæterdalen Valley, in direction of which the path continues its lengthy and largely gradual descent to Jøldalshytta Hut, superbly located overlooking Jølvatnet Lake.

Crossing the wind/rain-swept saddle near Høghøa.

Footbridge over the Minnilla River.

Jøldalshytta Hut (picture taken early the next morning, throughout an all-too-brief window of sunshine).

The second stage to Trollheimshytta Hut presents hikers three alternate routes. If situations are clear(ish), it’s laborious to go previous the excessive traverses over Geithøtta High (1,316 m/4,318 ft) or Trollhetta (1,616 m/5,302 ft). The third route is a 16 km (9.9 mi) primarily low-level affair that traces the course of the Svartåa River. With heavy rain on the playing cards, I opted for the latter choice. It ended up being a stunning valley stroll, resplendent with storybook bridges, luxuriant meadows, charming turf-roofed cottages, and peak fall foliage. 

Trollheimshytta Hut is positioned within the coronary heart of “troll nation.” After I arrived, it was closed for the season, however the adjoining day/emergency shelter was open and offered welcome respite from the rain.

Having fun with an extended (and dry) lunch within the Trollheimshytta day shelter.

The third and remaining stage of the journey measures 21 km (13 mi) and is the hardest of the path’s trio of sections. Leaving Trollheimshytta Hut, you’ll quickly cross a footbridge over the Slettåa River earlier than commencing an extended and steep climb.

Zig-zagging up via a sequence of rocky terraces, the path features round 700 m (2,297 ft) in elevation over the course of the next three kilometers (1.9 mi). After some huffing and puffing, you’ll prime out at Skallen Peak (1,226 m/4,022 ft). In fantastic climate (I’ve heard), your efforts will probably be rewarded with beautiful vistas over the rivers, lakes, and woodlands of Svartåmoen Nature Reserve. In chilly, wet, windy, and cloudy situations, I had an ironic chuckle, wolfed down some chocolate, placed on an additional layer, and stored shifting.

Departing Skallen, proceed south over Mellomfjellet, a rocky, tarn-peppered plateau that feels a world away from the forested environs of Trollheimshytta and the Svartådalen Valley. About an hour from Skallen, you’ll arrive at Fossådalsvatnet Lake.

Fossådalsvatnet Lake

Skirt its jap shore and climb steeply as much as Riarskaret Move (1,307 m/4,288 ft), which is the best level of the stage. From Riarskaret, descend via a treeless panorama, passing the roundish Kamtjønnin Lake earlier than rising into the expansive Gjørdøldalen Valley.

Kamtjønnin Lake

Gjørdøldalen Valley

After strolling a lot of the day in chilly, moist, and windy situations, there aren’t many issues higher than a sizzling meal, adopted by crawling into your dry sleeping bag/quilt and drifting off to the land of Nod accompanied by Mom Nature’s pitter patter soundtrack.

The next morning, I awoke to blue skies. From my campsite, the path contoured across the edges of Gjørdøldalen’s boggy ground earlier than reaching a footbridge over the river Gravbekke.

Taking a pointy flip to the south, the path parallels the Gravbekke for a lot of the next 5 kilometers (3.1 mi). Alongside the way in which, hikers are afforded attractive views over the expansive Gjevillvatnet Lake. Ultimately, you’ll attain the street on the alternate car parking zone, from the place it’s an additional 1.5 km (0.9 mi) again to the Gjevilvassyttha trailhead. 

Publish-hike meal and drying out session.

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