Tahoe’s Desolation Wilderness is considered one of my favourite backpacking spots in California, and I’m not alone, actually. Regardless of the sense of poetic solitude implied by its identify, this alpine granite wonderland is among the hottest designated wilderness areas in all the United States.
It’s simple to see why. The glowing granite slabs, fragrant pines, and deep-blue alpine lakes of Desolation Wilderness make a superb canvas on which to stamp our dusty footprints. Whether or not you spend a single night time at a scenic lakeside camp or hike for days in a big loop, you’ll really feel transported removed from the hustle and bustle of close by Lake Tahoe’s shores.
This comparatively small and very talked-about space is residence to delicate alpine ecosystems, so backpackers must be on our best possible Depart No Hint conduct. Permits are restricted throughout the summer season climbing season, and it may well take some analysis to search out an obtainable itinerary that fits your ability and expertise degree.
This publish will allow you to plan your backpacking journey in Desolation Wilderness, from selecting your path to discovering obtainable permits to defending the gorgeous landscapes, vegetation, and animals that decision the realm residence. I’ve hiked many of the trails within the wilderness and I’m excited to share this lovely spot with you!
Once you purchase by affiliate hyperlinks on this publish, I’ll earn a small fee. Thanks on your help! I all the time supply unbiased opinions based mostly on actual expertise from the highway and path. Be taught extra.
Desolation Wilderness at a Look
Location: California’s Sierra Nevada mountains, close to southwest shore of Lake Tahoe north of Freeway 50
Season: July to September, depending on snowpack
Permits: required and will be aggressive
Meals Storage: bear canister required
Why it’s nice:
Prime-notch alpine sceneryAccessible and near civilization (Tahoe Basin)Plentiful water sources and tenting
Challenges and annoyances:
Permits are competitiveCrowded on widespread trailsMosquitos throughout early summerBear canisters are required
Overview by Space
To grasp the format of Desolation Wilderness it is advisable envision the 2 parallel trails that run its size: the favored PCT within the east (similar because the Tahoe Rim Path on this part) and the less-traveled Rubicon Path within the west.
The PCT stays comparatively excessive on the Lake Tahoe aspect of the Wilderness, skirting the crest and providing glorious views because it hops from lake to lake. The Rubicon Path stays low within the Rubicon River drainage, much less scenic however providing entry (through a steep climb) to the smaller and fewer crowded lakes of the west. The 2 trails be part of at Lake Aloha within the south and will be linked within the north with Velma Path, permitting for a bigger loop.
The east is most crowded, closest to the populated Tahoe Basin and across the PCT / TRT hall. On busy days you’ll need to take care of day hikers on the strategy trails, PCT through hikers, and as many backpackers because the allow system permits. The southeast particularly, that includes beautiful Lake Aloha and a cluster of smaller widespread lakes, is as crowded as it’s lovely.
The busier trails of the japanese aspect are higher for much less skilled backpackers, particularly these climbing solo. You’ll by no means be too removed from different hikers and the paths are considerably higher maintained. The well-trodden PCT is straightforward to observe, even in early season when some snow stays.
The west aspect of Desolation Wilderness is much less crowded and the paths are a bit rougher. If you wish to get away from the crowds, it’s definitely worth the dust highway drive to Wrights Lake the place you possibly can hike over aptly named Rockbound Cross to discover lovely lakes. This space isn’t any much less scenic than the japanese aspect for my part, although it’s rougher and extra distant.
Should you’re newer to backpacking, I don’t advocate you begin on the western aspect. That is very true for those who’re solo, and particularly in early season when it’s simple to lose the path below snow and downed timber.
Permits
Permits for backpacking in Desolation Wilderness are usually aggressive, however there are methods to enhance your possibilities. I’ve taken quite a few last-minute journeys throughout peak summer season months, and I’ve all the time been capable of finding a allow by being versatile with my entry zone (mid-week timing helps too).
Probably the most up-to-date allow info will be discovered on the Forest Service web site: Desolation Wilderness In a single day Permits. On the time I’m scripting this in 2024, permits are required for in a single day stays year-round and quotas are in place between Friday earlier than Memorial Day by September 30.
In the course of the quota season, permits are granted based mostly on the zone the place you’ll spend your first night time. After the primary night time you’re free to hike and camp wherever you need.
Roughly 70% of the quota permits will be reserved prematurely on recreation.gov, and so they turn out to be obtainable six months earlier than the beginning date. In order for you one of the best probability at getting a allow on your chosen zone, reserve it six months prematurely! The remaining 30% can be found the day of on a walk-up foundation on the ranger station.
In order for you a extra peaceable and solitary campsite, one good trick is to have a look at the trailhead quotas and discover the extra remoted spots with small numbers. For instance, the Phipps Lake zone solely has 4 spots obtainable on any given night time. Should you can rating a allow there, you’ll virtually have the place to your self.
When you get a backpacking allow, in a single day parking on the applicable trailhead is mostly included.
Shorter Backpacking Routes (Overnighters)
Desolation Wilderness presents dozens of backpacking routes, most within the shorter vary of 1 to a few nights. It’s a well-liked space for out-and-back overnighters to a scenic lakeside camp. Even higher, arrange a base camp and discover different close by lakes and peaks for a day or two earlier than climbing out.
Right here’s a choice of widespread shorter backpacking routes in Desolation Wilderness. Be sure you examine the allow availability and allow zones whereas making your resolution, particularly if planning a last-minute journey. After I backpack in Desolation Wilderness I typically base my route on what’s obtainable, as there are actually no unhealthy choices on this beautiful alpine paradise.
All mileages listed under are spherical journey.
Southeast Overnighters
Major entry is from Echo Lakes, Ralston Peak, or Glen Alpine trailheads. Lake Aloha is the star attraction on this space and its zone has one of many largest allow quotas in all the wilderness. You could find a bit extra solitude, however not a lot, on the smaller lakes close by.
Listed here are among the widespread brief backpacking routes (overnighters or base camp conditions) on this a part of the wilderness:
Tamarack Lake from Echo Lakes TH (7 miles)Gilmore Lake from Glen Alpine TH (8 miles), drop your gear and add an out-and-back to Mt. Tallac!Gilmore Lake from Mt. Tallac TH (10 miles)Lake of the Woods from Echo Lakes TH (10 miles)Lake of the Woods from Ralston Peak TH (10 miles)Half Moon Lake from Glen Alpine TH (11 miles)Lake Aloha from Echo Lakes TH (12-14 miles, very talked-about space)Lake Aloha, Heather, and Suzie Lakes from Glen Alpine TH (12 miles): One of many few brief loops in Desolation Wilderness.
Northeast Overnighters
Major entry is from Bayview and Eagle Falls trailheads, and Meeks Bay trailhead within the north.
Bayview and Eagle Falls each present entry to the favored Velma and Fontanillis Lake space, however Bayview is the smoother and extra gradual of the 2. The center and decrease Velma zones are lovely but additionally crowded, with the most important allow quotas in all the Wilderness.
One of the best brief backpacking route on this space is the Velma, Fontanillis, Dick’s Lake Loop from Bayview TH or Eagle Falls TH (11 miles). When you have time I like to recommend including a day hike to Dick’s Cross or Dick’s Peak for the views. Should you’re tempted to make this a real loop by ascending from Eagle Falls and descending Bayview, know that the stroll alongside the freeway is doable however a bit sketchy in locations (a lot of automobiles, no shoulder).
Different in a single day backpacking routes on this space:
Eagle Lake from Eagle Falls TH (2 miles, crowded, however okay for learners)Lake Genevieve from Meeks Bay TH (8.5 miles, additionally Crag Lake and Hidden Lake a bit farther)Velma Lakes from Bayview TH (11 miles)Stony Ridge Lake from Meeks Bay TH (12 miles)
West Overnighters
Major entry is from Wrights Lake / Twin Lakes TH. It is a dust highway, however accessible (when seasonally open) to straightforward 2wd automobiles. This space is far much less crowded than the east and has some fairly tough trails in locations, so I like to recommend it for folk with some backpacking expertise.
Out-and-back backpacking routes from Wrights Lake:
There are a number of different west-side trailheads I’m not accustomed to: Buck Island, Look Lake, Van Vleck, and Lyons Creek. They largely supply brief out-and-back trails good for a fast in a single day however with out methods to attach into the remainder of the Wilderness. The Lyons Creek space was broken within the Caldor hearth and I haven’t checked on it since.
Longer Backpacking Routes
When you have a couple of days and wish to cowl extra floor whereas retracing fewer steps, these loops in Desolation Wilderness will take most backpackers three or extra days to finish (two for those who’re fast).
Loops and Lollipops
Most of those are technically “lollipop loops” with an out-and-back stem, however nonetheless extra fascinating than a strict out-and-back for my part.
Northeast: Genevieve and Stony Ridge Lakes, Phipps Peak, PCT Loop from Meeks Bay TH (22 miles). You may also entry this loop from Bayview or Eagle Falls TH if wanted. The mileage is barely longer however you’ll additionally get to benefit from the Velma Lakes.
West: Rockbound Cross, Lake Schmidell, Horseshoe Lake Loop (24 miles): Beautiful and less-traveled route with considerable scenic lakes: Doris, Lois, Schmidell, Leland, McConnel, Horseshoe, and 4Q. You would base camp at Lake Schmidell and hike the loop to Horseshoe Lake as a day hike. Or, carry your gear and add an out-and-back to secluded Highland Lake on the north finish.
Central and south: Lake Aloha, Rubicon Path, PCT, Dick’s Cross Central Loop (26+ miles): A superb massive loop that hits each the less-traveled Rubicon Path of the west and the favored lakes of the east. You may entry this path from just about any trailhead within the Wilderness. The map reveals probably the most direct approaches from Bayview, but when permits are scarce you’ll have higher luck ranging from Wrights Lake / Twin Lake trailhead.
In every single place: Huge Double Loop (48+ miles): That is principally the longest backpacking route that stays utterly inside Desolation Wilderness. It may be began from any trailhead, however Glen Alpine (proven on the map) is essentially the most direct. Should you select a unique trailhead I like to recommend skipping the southernmost part and taking the PCT from Lake Aloha to Gilmore Lake. Twin Lakes on the west aspect could also be best to discover a allow for.
In every single place: Grand Loop with Rubicon Jeep Path (55+ miles): I scouted this route in 2022 in an effort to create the longest potential backpacking loop in Desolation Wilderness. It truly exits the wilderness and spends a couple of miles on the Rubicon Jeep Path, an fascinating expertise however not one each backpacker will take pleasure in. I like to recommend most individuals keep on with the Huge Double Loop above, however a couple of curious and impressive of us would possibly take pleasure in this.
Level to Level Routes
When you have two automobiles and may handle the logistics, some extent to level hike is the best way to go! Listed here are the standout point-to-point backpacking routes by essentially the most scenic components of Desolation Wilderness:
Meeks Bay to Emerald Bay (17 miles, brief automotive shuttle): See the highlights of the north with a fast and straightforward automotive shuttle.
Meeks Bay to Echo Lakes (29 miles, average automotive shuttle): A north-south traverse of the wilderness beginning with a piece of the Tahoe-Yosemite Path then following the PCT / TRT, tagging many lakes alongside the best way.
Fifteen Lakes Traverse from Wrights Lake to Eagle Falls TH (32 miles, longer automotive shuttle): A circuitous route ranging from the less-visited west and winding by by the extra widespread lakes of the east, hitting just about all of the highlights.
Mountain climbing Season
The climbing season for Desolation Wilderness is roughly July to mid-September, similar as all the Sierra area.
June hikes are possible in low snow years, nevertheless it’s necessary to keep watch over snow ranges and be ready to show again. In June and typically July you’ll have moist trails, extra mosquitos, more durable water crossings, and snowfields. If making an attempt an early season hike I like to recommend learners keep on with the extra widespread east aspect the place the PCT supplies a well-trodden path.
July is often a secure time to plan a visit in typical snow years, however should still be early for the very best spots in excessive snow years. Usually the mosquitos are nonetheless unhealthy in July, however you possibly can take pleasure in good wildflowers in change.
August is my favourite time to go backpacking within the Sierra. Temperatures are heat and climate is usually gentle, snow has often melted from the very best factors, and mosquitos are much less intense. There’s an growing danger of wildfire smoke later in the summertime.
September nights will be fairly chilly, however climate is usually clear and steady within the earlier a part of the month. By late September there’s a danger of early winter storms, so it’s necessary to observe the climate within the weeks main as much as your hike.
If doubtful about situations on your hike, examine for current journey experiences on AllTrails.com.
Depart No Hint
As a very talked-about space with a fragile alpine atmosphere, the Desolation Wilderness must strike a cautious stability between entry and safety. We are able to all do our half by practising impeccable Depart No Hint abilities.
Defend water sources: These glowing blue lakes are delicate ecosystems, and so they received’t keep clear and delightful if we don’t handle them. Use accountable strategies for laundry dishes and washing garments: don’t wash instantly within the water sources and undoubtedly don’t achieve this with cleaning soap. Don’t camp inside 100 toes of lakes and rivers.
Camp on sturdy surfaces: As idyllic as that inexperienced grassy meadow appears to be like, don’t plop your tent down in the course of it or it received’t be idyllic for lengthy. All the time camp on dust, rock, or pine needles utilizing websites which have clearly been used earlier than.
Poop responsibly: Discover ways to responsibly poop within the woods, being particularly cautious to go a minimum of 200 toes from water sources and campsites and pack out your used bathroom paper. Giant components of the Desolation Wilderness are manufactured from granite, which may make it tough to dig a correct cat gap. Depart additional time to search out a great place!
Bears and critters: Black bears generally is a drawback in the event that they develop a style for hiker meals, therefore the bear canister requirement (see subsequent part). However typically it’s the smallest critters — chipmunks, marmots, and the like — that do essentially the most harm. To maintain them secure and keep away from inflicting nuisances for future hikers: don’t feed critters, preserve a clear camp, and retailer all meals in your bear canister when not attended.
No campfires: As a lot as all of us like gathering round a campfire below the celebs, wooden fires of any sort are off limits in Desolation Wilderness. The purpose is to decrease wildfire danger on this delicate space, and forestall hikers from turning all of the restricted alpine foliage (an necessary habitat for small creatures) into firewood.
Bears and Meals Storage
The Tahoe Basin is residence to black bears, and their interactions with hikers are on the rise. Black bears are often skittish and innocent, however can develop daring in the event that they develop a style for hiker meals and turn out to be accustomed to people.
From 2022 onward, bear canisters are required when backpacking in Desolation Wilderness. No hiker loves carrying a bear canister, however they’re very efficient at protecting our meals secure from bears and bears secure from our meals. Should you don’t have already got one, study extra about bear canisters right here.
Maps and Navigation
After I backpack in Desolation Wilderness I navigate utilizing the AllTrails app (with month-to-month subscription for offline maps) on my cellphone. Usually talking I don’t suppose a devoted GPS gadget is critical, however it is very important handle your cellphone’s battery life and have a backup plan.
For extra concerned routes, solo hikers might wish to convey a GPS nav gadget or an previous backup smartphone with the route cached in case one thing occurs to their cellphone. Most trails in Desolation Wilderness are properly maintained and marked on the junctions, however a GPS observe remains to be necessary as a result of it’s potential to lose the path, particularly below patches of lingering snow.
A paper map will be good to have for big-picture understanding and potential adjustments of plan. I take advantage of the Nationwide Geographic Trails Illustrated map of the Lake Tahoe Basin.
Different Ideas
A number of different tidbits about Desolation Wilderness:
Filter your ingesting water! Consider all of the backpackers pooping into the water provide (not directly, however nonetheless) and also you received’t query this. I and plenty of others use a Sawyer Squeeze filter with a CNOC Vecto soiled bag for a gravity-fed setup.
Pack mosquito repellent, particularly in June and July. You would possibly even take into account a head internet.
Canine are allowed in Desolation Wilderness however have to be “below rapid management of the proprietor.” Among the trails are fairly tough and rocky, so take into account your canine’s paws.
Extra Backpacking Sources
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In regards to the Writer
Hello there, I’m Alissa, founding father of Exploring Wild. I’ve had the pleasure of climbing the Arizona Path, Colorado Path, John Muir Path, Tahoe Rim Path, and numerous shorter superb trails all through the US and overseas. I really like solitude, massive views, and a great light-weight gear setup. Be taught extra right here.
